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Walking routes in Moscow

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      Gastronomic classics of the centre: the big loop

      ⏱ 6 h🚶 3.8 km🍽 3📍 10 stops
      🚶 Moderate — 3–7 km

      Russian cuisine by the Kremlin, Teatralnaya Square and Kamergersky Lane, dessert at Café Pushkin and dinner at Nikitskiye Vorota after a walk along Tverskoy Boulevard.

      🍽 Food tour🏛 History and architecture
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🏛 Manezhnaya Square
        A wide square between the Kremlin, the Manege and the Hotel Moskva, with a monument to Zhukov and the glass dome of a shopping centre.
        Start at the Manege
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Manezhnaya Square
        © Юрий Д.К. · CC BY 4.0
        • The square was created in 1931–1938 by demolishing whole blocks, including Loskutny and Obzhorny lanes.
        • From 1967 to 1990 it was officially called the 50th Anniversary of October Square, but the name never caught on.
        • The Manege was built as an exercise hall (Exerzierhaus) for troop drill, designed by Augustin de Betancourt and Auguste de Montferrand.
        • The dome of the Okhotny Ryad shopping centre is crowned with a sculpture of St George.
        • In the Geyser, the central fountain of 1996, stands a group of four horses called The Seasons.
        • The canal along the Alexander Garden is decorated with sculptures by Zurab Tsereteli.
        • Under the square is the Museum of Moscow Archaeology, founded in 1997.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🍽 Doctor Zhivago restaurant
        ул. Моховая, 15/1, гостиница «Националь»
        ▮▮▮▮▯
        Lunch: pelmeni, borscht and windows on the Kremlin; on weekday afternoons it’s easier to get a table without a reservation
        🍴 A modern Russian restaurant by Rappoport in the National hotel with a view of the Kremlin, open around the clock. What to order: pirozhki (small pies), pelmeni (dumplings), crayfish, and for dessert the Tsvetaeva pie.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🏛 Metropol Hotel
        Театральный пр-д, 2
        A 1905 Art Nouveau hotel with mosaics, a facade and a stained-glass dome over the restaurant.
        Walk around the building along Teatralny Proyezd: the majolica panel “Princess Dream” after Vrubel’s sketch is on the facade above the entrance from the square
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Metropol Hotel
        © Юрий Д.К. · CC BY 4.0
        • The hotel was conceived by Savva Mamontov, together with a huge opera house that was later dropped.
        • In 1899 Mamontov was arrested in a railway case, and the building was finished without him.
        • The project was started by William Walcot, and Lev Kekushev was the chief architect of the construction.
        • In December 1901 the nearly finished building burned for 41.5 hours: the fire started from the chimney of the samovar room.
        • The facades have 23 ceramic panels and a majolica inscription with words by Friedrich Nietzsche.
        • In 1918 the Metropol became the "Second House of Soviets": the All-Russian Central Executive Committee met in the former restaurant, and Lenin and Trotsky spoke there.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🏛 Bolshoi Theatre
        The country's main opera and ballet theatre, with an eight-column portico and Apollo's quadriga above the entrance.
        A photo with the quadriga of Apollo and the square with its fountain; at the box offices in the left wing you can ask about evening tickets
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Bolshoi Theatre
        © Юрий Д.К. · CC BY 4.0
        • The theatre's founding day is considered to be 28 March 1776, when Prince Pyotr Urusov received from Catherine II the right to maintain theatrical performances.
        • The current building, designed by Osip Bove, opened on 18 January 1825 with the prologue The Triumph of the Muses.
        • After the fire of 1853 only the walls and colonnade survived; Albert Cavos rebuilt the theatre in three years, and it reopened on 20 August 1856.
        • The bronze quadriga of Apollo by Pyotr Klodt replaced the earlier alabaster sculpture after the fire of 1853.
        • The famous golden brocade curtain, designed by Fyodor Fyodorovsky, appeared in 1955.
        • The Historic Stage was reconstructed from 2005 to 2011 and reopened on 28 October 2011.
        • From October 1941 to July 1943 the theatre worked in evacuation in Kuibyshev.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🚶 Kamergersky Lane (Kamergersky Pereulok)
        A pedestrian lane between Tverskaya and Bolshaya Dmitrovka, with the Chekhov Moscow Art Theatre building and monuments at its entrance.
        The Moscow Art Theatre and street cafés
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Kamergersky Lane (Kamergersky Pereulok)
        © Rakoon · CC0
        • The name comes from the officials who lived here with the court title of kammerherr (chamberlain); in 1923–1992 it was Art Theatre Passage.
        • The lane became pedestrian on 26 October 1998.
        • The remodelling of the building for the Moscow Art Theatre was paid for by Savva Morozov, 300,000 roubles, while Fyodor Shekhtel did the design free of charge.
        • The street lamps in the lane were made to Shekhtel's drawings.
        • In the 1920s the Tenth Muse café operated here, visited by Mayakovsky, Yesenin and Bryusov.
        • The lane has two museums, the Moscow Art Theatre Museum and the Sergei Prokofiev Museum.
      10. 🚶 on foot
      11. 6
        🏛 Yeliseyev House (former Yeliseyevsky shop)
        Тверская ул., 14
        A neo-Gothic facade and display windows of 1901; the food hall itself has been closed since 2021.
        1901 neo-Gothic — from outside
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Yeliseyev House (former Yeliseyevsky shop)
        © Mike1979 Russia · CC BY-SA 3.0
        Yeliseyev House (former Yeliseyevsky shop)
        © Aniacra · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • Grigory Yeliseyev bought the former Kozitskaya mansion in 1898; the architect Baranovsky led its conversion into a shop.
        • For three years the building stood wrapped in wooden scaffolding, and townspeople wondered what was inside; the scaffolding came down on the morning of the opening.
        • The shop opened on 23 January (5 February) 1901; Gilyarovsky described the ceremony in Moscow and Muscovites.
        • The entrance to the wine department was made from Kozitsky Lane: wine could not be sold within 100 m of a church, and the Strastnoy Monastery stood 90 m away.
        • The display of goods in pyramids, later copied by many shops, was Yeliseyev's idea.
        • From the 1920s the shop was officially called Gastronom No. 1.
        • In the early 1980s, in the "Yeliseyevsky case", the shop's director Sokolov was sentenced to death.
      12. 🚶 on foot
      13. 7
        🍽 Café Pushkin
        Тверской б-р, 26А
        ▮▮▮▮▮
        Dessert at the ground-floor pastry shop: cakes and tea in the ground-floor hall, no reservation — nicer than a dinner on the run
        🍴 A restaurant of Russian aristocratic cuisine in an old-style mansion on Tverskoy Boulevard, open since 1999. What to order: beef stroganoff with Pushkin potatoes, a Pozharsky cutlet with mushroom sauce, dumplings with three kinds of meat.
      14. 🚶 on foot
      15. 8
        🚶 Tverskoy Boulevard
        A long, wide boulevard of lime trees and lawns between Pushkin Square and Nikitskiye Vorota, passing the Gorky Moscow Art Theatre.
        The oldest boulevard in Moscow: walk the whole length to Nikitskiye Vorota, passing the Gorky Moscow Art Theatre and the monument to Yesenin
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Tverskoy Boulevard
        © Valeri Pizhanski from Odintsovo, Russia · CC BY-SA 2.0
        Tverskoy Boulevard
        © Perituss · CC0
        • The boulevard was laid out in summer 1796; it is the oldest and longest boulevard of the Boulevard Ring, almost 900 m.
        • At first it was simply called "the Boulevard": there were no other boulevards in Moscow then.
        • In 1812 French soldiers cut down almost all the boulevard's trees for firewood.
        • Opekushin's Pushkin monument stood at the end of the boulevard from 1880, and in 1950 it was moved to the other side of the square.
        • Alexander Herzen was born in 1812 at No. 25; it now houses the Gorky Literary Institute.
        • RAPP and MAPP, which met in Herzen's house in the 1920s, became the prototype of Bulgakov's MASSOLIT.
        • Sergey Merkurov's monument to Timiryazev (1923) was knocked off its pedestal by a blast wave in 1941 and later restored.
        • In 1960 the World Chess Championship match was held in the building of the former Tairov Kamerny Theatre, now the Pushkin Theatre.
      16. 🚶 on foot
      17. 9
        🏛 Nikitskiye Vorota
        A square at the junction of boulevards with a rotunda fountain of Pushkin and Goncharova and the Empire-style Church of the Great Ascension.
        The rotunda fountain “Natalia and Alexander” — Pushkin was married in the Church of the Great Ascension opposite
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Nikitskiye Vorota
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The square is named after the Nikitsky Gate of the White City and the Nikitsky Monastery, which was demolished in the 1930s.
        • In 1831 Pushkin and Natalia Goncharova were married in the Church of the Great Ascension at Nikitskiye Vorota.
        • The rotunda fountain Natalia and Alexander, with figures of the newlyweds, was installed in 1999, for Pushkin's 200th anniversary.
        • Sergey Merkurov's monument to Kliment Timiryazev has stood on the square since 1923.
        • Mark Rozovsky's U Nikitskikh Vorot Theatre grew out of a studio he founded in 1983.
        • The TASS building at the corner of Tverskoy Boulevard is a recognisable late Soviet modernist structure of the 1970s.
      18. 🚶 on foot
      19. 10
        🍽 Ugolёk
        Б. Никитская ул., 12
        ▮▮▮▮▯
        Dinner: everything is cooked over an open fire — get the oven-baked bread and grilled dishes; for a weekend evening better to book
        🍴 A restaurant on Bolshaya Nikitskaya where almost everything is cooked over coals and in a wood-fired oven. What to order: chicken with mashed potatoes, black veal, tartare, chamomile and verbena lemonade.

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