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Walking routes in Moscow

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      All day: Moscow's coffee scene

      ⏱ 11 h🚶 9 km🍽 6📍 13 stops
      🏃 A lot — over 7 km

      Specialty coffee shops and the city's best bakeries from Polyanka to Chistye Prudy, with the lanes of Zamoskvorechye and Ivanovskaya Gorka in between.

      🍽 Food tour
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        ☕️ Erna Coffee Shop
        ул. Большая Полянка, 44/2
        ▮▯▯▯▯
        Breakfast: a full English and filter coffee
        🍴 A minimalist specialty coffee shop with panoramic windows, a favorite even among baristas themselves. What to order: an English breakfast, granola, filter coffee, an espresso-cappuccino-filter tasting set.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🏛 Marfo-Mariinsky Convent
        Б. Ордынка, 34
        A convent founded by Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna, with a church in the spirit of Pskov-Novgorod architecture.
        The garden and church of Shchusev's convent — quiet even at weekends
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Marfo-Mariinsky Convent
        © Mike1979 Russia · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Marfo-Mariinsky Convent
        © Lodo27 from Moscow, Russia · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • The convent was founded in 1909 by Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna after her husband, Grand Duke Sergei Alexandrovich, was killed by a terrorist's bomb in 1905.
        • The Intercession Cathedral was built in 1908–1912 to a design by Alexey Shchusev, with interior paintings by Mikhail Nesterov.
        • The convent was closed in 1926, and in Soviet times Grabar's restoration workshops worked in the cathedral.
        • Elizabeth Feodorovna was killed in 1918 near Alapayevsk; in 1992 the Russian Orthodox Church canonised her.
        • Vyacheslav Klykov's monument to Elizabeth Feodorovna has stood in the courtyard since 1990.
        • The convent's sisters still do charity work today, helping sick children, the elderly and the homeless.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🏛 Church of St Clement
        Климентовский пер., 7
        A huge red-and-white five-domed 18th-century church, a rare example of Elizabethan Baroque in Moscow.
        A Baroque church in the middle of Zamoskvorechye
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Church of St Clement
        © Mike1979 Russia · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Church of St Clement
        © Cons Ph · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The present five-domed church was built in 1762–1769; the architect is unknown, supposedly Pietro Antonio Trezzini.
        • Tradition says that 70,000 rubles for the construction were given by Chancellor Alexey Bestuzhev-Ryumin, whose estate was nearby; the church was completed by the merchant Kuzma Matveev.
        • The main altar is consecrated to the Transfiguration, so the church is also called Spaso-Preobrazhensky.
        • In the 1930s the church was closed and given over to a book depository of the Lenin Library, which is why the iconostasis and interior survived.
        • The building was returned to believers in 2008, and after restoration in 2014 it was consecrated by Patriarch Kirill.
        • Apollon Grigoryev in his memoirs singled it out among the Zamoskvorechye churches as "five-domed, magnificent".
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🚶 Pyatnitskaya Street
        Zamoskvorechye's main street with low-rise 19th-century houses, churches and cafés on the ground floors.
        Then across Bolshoy Ustinsky Bridge to Solyanka
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Pyatnitskaya Street
        © Retired electrician · CC0
        Pyatnitskaya Street
        © Retired electrician · CC0
        • The street is named after the Church of St Paraskeva Pyatnitsa, known from 1564; in the 15th–16th centuries it was called Bolshaya, the road to Serpukhov and Tula.
        • The Church of St Paraskeva Pyatnitsa was demolished in 1934, and in 1943 the vestibule of Novokuznetskaya metro was built on its site.
        • In 1857 Leo Tolstoy lived at No. 12 after the defence of Sevastopol.
        • The House of Radio operates at No. 25, with studios of Orfey, Govorit Moskva and other radio stations.
        • Sytin's printing house at Nos. 71–73 was built in 1903 with the participation of the engineer Vladimir Shukhov; Sergei Yesenin worked there in 1913.
        • The Halperin trading house at No. 13 was built in 1908 by Fyodor Shekhtel.
        • The Church of Pope Clement at the corner of Klimentovsky Lane is Zamoskvorechye's largest church, a monument of late Baroque.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        ☕️ Masa Madre Bakery
        ул. Солянка, 1/2, стр. 1
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        Lunch: a tartine or a mortadella sandwich; there can be a queue at weekends
        🍴 A bakery with an open kitchen, one of the best in Moscow. What to order: a tartine, a sandwich with homemade mortadella, a cinnamon bun, Basque cheesecake.
      10. 🚶 on foot
      11. 6
        🚶 Khokhlovsky Lane and the Ukraintsev Chambers
        A steep, curving lane with the chambers of a 17th-century duma clerk and a courtyard covered in graffiti.
        The lanes of Ivanovskaya Gorka — the hilliest in the centre
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Khokhlovsky Lane and the Ukraintsev Chambers
        © NVO · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • The name comes from the area of Khokhly, where in the 17th century Cherkassy Cossacks settled next to the Little Russian Court.
        • From 1697 the chambers belonged to the duma clerk and diplomat Yemelyan Ukraintsev.
        • After Poltava, Peter I granted the chambers to Prince Mikhail Golitsyn.
        • From 1770 the Moscow Main Archive of the College of Foreign Affairs was kept here.
        • At the Jurgenson music press attached to the chambers, almost all of Tchaikovsky's works were first printed.
        • The Church of the Life-Giving Trinity in Khokhly was built in 1696.
        • On the corner with Kolpachny Lane the steep left bank of the little Rachka river has survived.
      12. 🚶 on foot
      13. 7
        ☕️ Cherny Cooperative (Kooperativ Chyorny)
        Лялин пер., 5, стр. 1
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        An AeroPress or espresso from one of the city's first specialty coffee shops
        🍴 One of Moscow's first specialty coffee shops (since 2013), with its own roastery. What to order: espresso, an AeroPress with Colombian beans, a tasting set.
      14. 🚶 on foot
      15. 8
        🌳 Chistye Prudy (Clean Ponds)
        A boulevard with a pond in the middle, swan houses and a floating café on the water.
        A loop around the pond to walk off the coffee
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Chistye Prudy (Clean Ponds)
        © Alexxx1979 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Chistye Prudy (Clean Ponds)
        © Gennady Grachev from Moscow, Russia · CC BY 2.0
        • According to a popular version, the pond was called Pogany (Foul) because of butchers' waste, and in 1703 it was cleaned on Menshikov's orders.
        • Of several ponds, only one has survived to this day.
        • Nearby stands the Menshikov Tower of 1704–1707 by architect Ivan Zarudny; its top burned down after a lightning strike in 1723.
        • The monument to Griboyedov at the start of the boulevard was erected in 1959.
        • Since 1974 the Sovremennik Theatre has been housed in the building of the former Colosseum cinema of 1914.
        • The Annushka tram, route A, runs along the boulevard; in summer swans live on the pond.
      16. 🚶 on foot
      17. 9
        ☕️ YCP (Your Coffee Place) Coffee Shop
        Мясницкая ул., 13, стр. 21 (во дворе)
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        Look for the entrance in the courtyard; order a pour-over
        🍴 A specialty coffee shop in the courtyards between Myasnitskaya and Milyutinsky Lane. What to order: pour-over, espresso, an Asian flat white with matcha and pistachio, chocolate cheesecake.
      18. 🚶 on foot
      19. 10
        ☕️ La Poste Bakery on Myasnitskaya
        Мясницкая ул., 13, стр. 3
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        A canelé or croissant to go — the bakery is in the next courtyard
        🍴 An artisan bakery with pastries made to French recipes. What to order: a canelé, a croissant, sourdough buckwheat bread, a baguette.
      20. 🚶 on foot
      21. 11
        🚶 Kuznetsky Most
        A pedestrian street on the site of an old bridge over the Neglinka, lined with early 20th-century apartment buildings and shops.
        Through Lubyanka to Kuznetsky Most
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Kuznetsky Most
        © Stas Lobov · CC BY-SA 3.0
        Kuznetsky Most
        © Sigwald · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The street is named after the bridge over the Neglinnaya River near the Kuznetskaya settlement; a stone bridge was built in the 1750s.
        • When the Neglinnaya was put into a pipe in the 1810s, the bridge was filled in with earth.
        • In the 19th century it was home to fashionable French shops; Griboyedov wrote: "And it's all Kuznetsky Most, and the eternal French."
        • Kuznetsky Most metro station opened in 1975.
      22. 🚶 on foot
      23. 12
        🚶 Kamergersky Lane (Kamergersky Pereulok)
        A pedestrian lane between Tverskaya and Bolshaya Dmitrovka, with the Chekhov Moscow Art Theatre building and monuments at its entrance.
        The pedestrian lane by the Moscow Art Theatre
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Kamergersky Lane (Kamergersky Pereulok)
        © Rakoon · CC0
        • The name comes from the officials who lived here with the court title of kammerherr (chamberlain); in 1923–1992 it was Art Theatre Passage.
        • The lane became pedestrian on 26 October 1998.
        • The remodelling of the building for the Moscow Art Theatre was paid for by Savva Morozov, 300,000 roubles, while Fyodor Shekhtel did the design free of charge.
        • The street lamps in the lane were made to Shekhtel's drawings.
        • In the 1920s the Tenth Muse café operated here, visited by Mayakovsky, Yesenin and Bryusov.
        • The lane has two museums, the Moscow Art Theatre Museum and the Sergei Prokofiev Museum.
      24. 🚶 on foot
      25. 13
        🍽 Ugolёk
        Б. Никитская ул., 12
        ▮▮▮▮▯
        Dinner: dishes from a charcoal oven; booking essential
        🍴 A restaurant on Bolshaya Nikitskaya where almost everything is cooked over coals and in a wood-fired oven. What to order: chicken with mashed potatoes, black veal, tartare, chamomile and verbena lemonade.

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