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      All day: literary Moscow

      ⏱ 10 h🚶 8 km🍽 3📍 12 stops
      🏃 A lot — over 7 km

      Pushkin, Gogol, Chekhov, Bulgakov and Tolstoy — the houses, boulevards and restaurants the writers frequented.

      🍽 Food tour🏛 History and architecture🎨 Art
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🍽 Café Pushkin
        Тверской б-р, 26А
        ▮▮▮▮▮
        Breakfast at Pushkin
        🍴 A restaurant of Russian aristocratic cuisine in an old-style mansion on Tverskoy Boulevard, open since 1999. What to order: beef stroganoff with Pushkin potatoes, a Pozharsky cutlet with mushroom sauce, dumplings with three kinds of meat.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🏛 Pushkin Square
        A square on Tverskaya with a garden, fountains and Opekushin's bronze Pushkin of 1880.
        Pushkin Monument
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Pushkin Square
        © Shakko · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The square was called Strastnaya, after the Passion Monastery demolished in 1937; it became Pushkinskaya in 1931.
        • The Rossiya cinema, now Pushkinsky, was built in 1961 on the monastery's site.
        • Alexander Opekushin's Pushkin monument was unveiled on Tverskoy Boulevard in 1880, and in the mid-20th century it was moved across the square.
        • The 1880 unveiling celebrations are remembered for Dostoevsky's Pushkin Speech.
        • The Izvestia building of 1927 by the architect Grigory Barkhin is a notable monument of Constructivism.
        • On 31 January 1990 the USSR's first McDonald's opened here; on the first day the queue stretched for hundreds of metres.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🚶 Tverskoy Boulevard
        A long, wide boulevard of lime trees and lawns between Pushkin Square and Nikitskiye Vorota, passing the Gorky Moscow Art Theatre.
        The boulevard where all of the 19th-century literary world strolled
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Tverskoy Boulevard
        © Valeri Pizhanski from Odintsovo, Russia · CC BY-SA 2.0
        Tverskoy Boulevard
        © Perituss · CC0
        • The boulevard was laid out in summer 1796; it is the oldest and longest boulevard of the Boulevard Ring, almost 900 m.
        • At first it was simply called "the Boulevard": there were no other boulevards in Moscow then.
        • In 1812 French soldiers cut down almost all the boulevard's trees for firewood.
        • Opekushin's Pushkin monument stood at the end of the boulevard from 1880, and in 1950 it was moved to the other side of the square.
        • Alexander Herzen was born in 1812 at No. 25; it now houses the Gorky Literary Institute.
        • RAPP and MAPP, which met in Herzen's house in the 1920s, became the prototype of Bulgakov's MASSOLIT.
        • Sergey Merkurov's monument to Timiryazev (1923) was knocked off its pedestal by a blast wave in 1941 and later restored.
        • In 1960 the World Chess Championship match was held in the building of the former Tairov Kamerny Theatre, now the Pushkin Theatre.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🖼 Gogol House
        Никитский б-р, 7А
        🎟 ticket
        A manor on Nikitsky Boulevard where Gogol spent his last years and burned the second volume of Dead Souls.
        The house where the second volume of "Dead Souls" was burned
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Gogol House
        © Eden87 · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • Gogol lived here, in Count Alexander Tolstoy's manor, from 1848 until his death in 1852.
        • The first stone chambers on this plot appeared as early as the 17th century.
        • Almost none of Gogol's own belongings survive: the exhibition has, for example, Alexander Ostrovsky's sofa and Mikhail Pogodin's desk.
        • The fireplace in the drawing room is a symbol: Gogol scholar Igor Zolotussky pointed out that the manuscript burned in a stove, not in a fireplace.
        • A library has operated in the house since the 1920s, and it is now part of Gogol House.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🚶 Povarskaya Street
        A street in the Arbat area with 18th–19th-century mansions and embassies, a quiet corner just steps from New Arbat.
        The "Rostov house" from "War and Peace"
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Povarskaya Street
        © Alexxx1979 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Povarskaya Street
        © Andreykor · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The name comes from the palace Povarskaya (cooks') settlement: in 1573 the tsar's kitchen was served by 477 people.
        • The neighbouring Khlebny, Skatertny, Stolovy and Nozhovy lanes are named after the trades of kitchen servants.
        • From 1923 to 1992 the street was called Vorovskogo Street.
        • The Dolgorukov-Sollogub estate (no. 52) is traditionally considered the prototype of the Rostovs' house in War and Peace.
        • The Church of St Simeon the Stylite was built in 1676–1679; Gogol's death is recorded in its parish register.
        • Bunin lived on Povarskaya from October 1917 to May 1918, and in 2016 a small park on the street was named after him.
      10. 🚶 on foot
      11. 6
        🍽 CDL Restaurant
        Поварская ул., 50/53
        ▮▮▮▮▯
        Lunch in the oak hall of a writers' club
        🍴 A restaurant in the mansion of the Central House of Writers on Povarskaya, with oak-panelled interiors. What to order: venison pelmeni (dumplings) with mushroom uzvar, chicken Kiev, Kremlyovskiye syrniki for breakfast, cranberry liqueur.
      12. 🚶 on foot
      13. 7
        🖼 Chekhov House Museum
        Садовая-Кудринская ул., 6
        🎟 ticket
        A two-storey red-brick house on Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya where Chekhov lived with his family in 1886–1890.
        Chekhov's "chest-of-drawers house"
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Chekhov House Museum
        © Olga North · Public domain
        • Chekhov called the house "the chest of drawers", for its unusual layout with projections and its red walls.
        • The Chekhovs rented the apartment from Dr Yakov Korneev for 650 roubles a year.
        • The Steppe, A Dreary Story and the plays Ivanov, The Bear and The Proposal were written here.
        • Chekhov also saw patients here, daily from 12 to 3 o'clock by his own account.
        • Korolenko, Pleshcheyev, Gilyarovsky and the architect Fyodor Shekhtel were among the visitors.
        • From here on 21 April 1890 Chekhov set off on his journey to Sakhalin.
        • The permanent exhibition opened on 14 July 1954, for the 50th anniversary of the writer's death.
      14. 🚶 on foot
      15. 8
        🖼 Bulgakov Museum (the "Bad Apartment")
        Б. Садовая ул., 10
        🎟 ticket
        The Art Nouveau Pigit apartment building where Bulgakov lived in 1921–1924 and from which he "moved" Woland and his retinue into the novel.
        The "Bad Apartment"
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Bulgakov Museum (the "Bad Apartment")
        © Никонико962 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The apartment building was built in 1902–1903 for the tobacco manufacturer Ilya Pigit, owner of the Dukat factory.
        • Bulgakov lived here from 1921 to 1924, at first in Apartment No. 50, which became the "bad apartment" of The Master and Margarita.
        • In the novel the building is called "302-bis Sadovaya".
        • In autumn 1921, in the studio of the artist Georgy Yakulov in this building, Yesenin met Isadora Duncan.
        • The artist Pyotr Konchalovsky also had a studio in the building.
        • Two museums operate in the stairwell: the state museum in Apartment No. 50 and the private Bulgakov House on the ground floor.
        • For years the stairwell walls were covered with inscriptions and drawings by fans of the novel.
      16. 🚶 on foot
      17. 9
        🌳 Patriarch's Ponds (Patriarshiye Prudy)
        A square pond surrounded by old lime trees and benches, a calm park amid quiet lanes and the setting of The Master and Margarita.
        That very bench
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Patriarch's Ponds (Patriarshiye Prudy)
        © Dimа · CC BY-SA 3.0
        Patriarch's Ponds (Patriarshiye Prudy)
        © Shuvaev · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Patriarch's Ponds (Patriarshiye Prudy)
        © Gennady Grachev from Moscow, Russia · CC BY 2.0
        • In 1683 Patriarch Joachim ordered the local Goat Marsh drained and three fish ponds dug.
        • After the fire of 1812 two ponds were filled in and one remained; Trekhprudny Lane recalls the three.
        • From 1932 to 1992 the pond was officially called Pionersky ("Pioneer").
        • The 1976 Krylov monument (sculptors Andrei Drevin and Daniel Mitlyansky) is surrounded by scenes from 12 fables.
        • The stone pavilion by the water was built in 1986 on the site of a wooden one from 1938.
        • The Master and Margarita begins here; the sign banning talking to strangers refers to the novel's first chapter.
        • A skating rink has been flooded on the pond since 1900, with an area of about 12,000 m².
      18. 🚶 on foot
      19. 10
        🚶 Old Arbat (Staryi Arbat)
        A pedestrian street about a kilometre long, with 19th-century mansions, cafés and street artists.
        Okudzhava's Arbat
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Old Arbat (Staryi Arbat)
        © Florstein · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Old Arbat (Staryi Arbat)
        © Елена Нечипоренко · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Old Arbat (Staryi Arbat)
        © Valeri Pizhanski from Odintsovo, Russia · CC BY-SA 2.0
        • The name Arbat has been known since the late 15th century; its origin is disputed, either from the Turkic arba (cart) or the Arabic rabad (suburb).
        • In 1986 the Arbat became Moscow's first pedestrian street.
        • Andrei Bely was born and raised at no. 55, and Pushkin spent the first months of his marriage in the neighbouring house, no. 53.
        • The Vakhtangov Theatre (no. 26) grew out of Evgeny Vakhtangov's studio; its building was destroyed in a bombing raid in 1941.
        • The Tsoi Wall in Krivoarbatsky Lane appeared in 1990, after the musician's death.
        • Krivoarbatsky Lane is also home to Konstantin Melnikov's house-studio of 1927–1929, made of two merged cylinders.
        • On the corner with Plotnikov Lane stands a monument to Bulat Okudzhava, who sang about the Arbat in his songs.
      20. 🚶 on foot
      21. 11
        🖼 Pushkin Apartment Museum on the Arbat
        ул. Арбат, 53
        🎟 ticket
        A two-storey mansion on the Arbat where the second floor recreates the setting of Pushkin's rooms.
        The apartment where Pushkin lived after his wedding
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Pushkin Apartment Museum on the Arbat
        © Никонико962 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • Pushkin brought Natalia Goncharova here right after their wedding on 18 February 1831 and lived here until mid-May.
        • The poet rented the second-floor apartment in the Khitrovo house for six months at 2,000 roubles, but left for Petersburg much earlier.
        • On the eve of the wedding Pushkin held his bachelor party in this house.
        • The memorial plaque on the house appeared in 1937, for the 100th anniversary of the poet's death.
        • The museum was founded in 1972 and opened to visitors after restoration in 1986.
        • Opposite stands the monument to Pushkin and Goncharova, erected in 1999 for the poet's 200th anniversary.
      22. 🚶 on foot
      23. 12
        🍽 White Rabbit
        Смоленская пл., 3, 16 этаж
        ▮▮▮▮▮
        Dinner on the 16th floor under a glass dome
        🍴 Vladimir Mukhin's restaurant under a glass dome on the 16th floor, with views of the centre and modern Russian cuisine. What to order: tuna tartare with caviar, black cod, rabbit dishes, cheek braised for 72 hours.

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