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      Tarusa: the Tsvetaevs, Paustovsky and the Oka

      ⏱ 10 h 50 min🚶 4.5 km + 🚌🍽 2📍 8 stops
      🚶 Moderate — 3–7 km

      A little town on the high bank of the Oka: the Tsvetaev family museum, Paustovsky’s grave above the Tarusa River, the Marina Tsvetaeva stone by the river and a Tsvetaev pie for the road.

      🏛 History and architecture🎨 Art🌳 Parks and nature🚆 Out of town
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps (with transit)
      Getting there
      🏛 Kursky Railway Station
      ул. Земляной Вал, 29
      Buy Lastochka tickets in advance on the Russian Railways site. You can’t combine Polenovo and Tarusa in one day without a car: the boat runs only in the navigation season, and by land it’s a detour through Serpukhov
      🚌 by bus to Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul in Tarusa
      Lastochka from Kursky Station at 08:46 to Serpukhov (10:06), then from the station minibus 245 to Tarusa at 10:30 or 10:40, ≈50 min to the bus station
      1. 1
        🏛 Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul in Tarusa
        Таруса, пл. Ленина, 1
        A cathedral on Tarusa's central square, a short walk from the bus station.
        The cathedral on the main square is two minutes from the bus station, so we start there
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul in Tarusa
        © Liza_vetta · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The stone cathedral was built to a design by Ivan Yasnygin on the site of the wooden Church of St Nicholas, which burned in the town fire of 1779.
        • The first iconostasis turned out badly, and in 1807 the merchants Ivan and Dmitry Ikonnikov vowed to make a new one.
        • In the 1930s the cathedral was closed and given over to a Pioneers' House; the parish was revived in 1998.
        • In August 2011 a bronze bust of General Mikhail Efremov, killed in 1942, was installed on the square by the cathedral.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🖼 Tsvetaev Family Museum in Tarusa
        Таруса, ул. Розы Люксембург, 30
        🎟 ticket
        A museum about the Tsvetaev family's summers in Tarusa: Ivan Vladimirovich, Marina and Anastasia; a branch of the Kaluga United Museum-Reserve.
        Tue–Sun 9:30–18:00, closed Mon and the last Wednesday of the month
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Tsvetaev Family Museum in Tarusa
        © Laktrissa · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The museum opened on 4 October 1992, for Marina Tsvetaeva's 100th birthday.
        • It is housed in the restored “House of Tyo”, bought in 1899 by Marina's maternal grandfather Alexander Meyn.
        • The name “Tyo” was coined by little Marina and Anastasia, who reworked the French surname of their grandfather's second wife, who lived in the house.
        • The Tsvetaevs rented summer dachas in Tarusa from 1891, and the sisters stayed in this house during their winter visits of 1907–1910.
        • In 2017 the study of Ivan Vladimirovich Tsvetaev and Marina's room were recreated in the outbuilding.
        • The collection includes drawings and watercolours by the poet's daughter Ariadna Efron and first editions of the Tsvetaevs' works.
        • Every two years the museum holds the Tsvetaev academic readings, and since 1998 a children's festival-competition of young poets and musicians.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🏛 Paustovsky's Grave
        Таруса, ул. Розы Люксембург, над рекой Таруской
        The grave of Konstantin Paustovsky on the high bank of the Taruska, one of the quietest places in town.
        A path up to the high bank of the Tarusa. Paustovsky’s house-museum (Proletarskaya, 2) is open only Fri–Sun 11:00–18:00 by prior appointment
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Paustovsky's Grave
        © OptimusView · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • Paustovsky died on 14 July 1968 in Moscow and, according to his will, was buried in Tarusa's town cemetery.
        • A year before his death, on 30 May 1967, the writer became an honorary citizen of Tarusa.
        • The writer's first wife Ekaterina Zagorskaya and their son Vadim are buried in the same Old Cemetery.
        • In 1961 Paustovsky compiled the almanac “Tarusa Pages”: of the 75,000 copies planned, only 31,000 were printed.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🍽 Dyadya Dymov (“Uncle Dymov”) Restaurant
        Таруса, ул. Карла Либкнехта, 11/20
        ▮▮▮▯▯
        Lunch; book on weekends — it’s the most popular restaurant in town
        🍴 A restaurant at the hotel in the centre of Tarusa, with a veranda. What to order: borscht, veal cheeks, zander with vegetables, duck in cherry sauce, rum baba.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🚶 Oka Embankment and the Paustovsky Monument
        Таруса, ул. Декабристов
        Tarusa's promenade by the pier with a monument to Paustovsky and a wide view of the Oka.
        Go down to the Oka and walk east along the embankment
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Oka Embankment and the Paustovsky Monument
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Oka Embankment and the Paustovsky Monument
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The Paustovsky monument was unveiled on 24 August 2012; the sculptor Vadim Tserkovnikov portrayed the writer with his dog Grozny, working from old photographs.
        • Not far away on the Oka bank stands the monument to Marina Tsvetaeva by Vladimir Soskiev and Boris Messerer, unveiled on 8 October 2006.
        • After the war Paustovsky spoke out in Pravda in defence of Tarusa; the town was improved and the limestone quarry was closed.
        • Builders called the local limestone “Tarusa marble”: it clads the plinths of many buildings in Moscow and Serpukhov.
      10. 🚶 on foot
      11. 6
        🏛 Church of the Resurrection of Christ in Tarusa
        Таруса, ул. Ефремова, 7
        A white church above the Oka on the eastern edge of old Tarusa.
        A climb from the river to the church, with a nice view of the Oka
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Church of the Resurrection of Christ in Tarusa
        © AndyVolykhov · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • It was originally the church of the suburban village of Voskresenskoye, which was burned along with the church during Devlet-Giray's raid.
        • In 1898–1903 the church was rebuilt in the Russian style: a new refectory, a tent-roofed dome and a bell tower appeared.
        • Services stopped in 1934; Natalya Krandievskaya recalled the word “Bakery” on its peeling walls.
        • The church was returned to believers in 1988, and its walls were painted in the 1990s by Irina Starzhenetskaya.
        • In 1997 a stone wayside cross by Anatoly Komelin was erected by the church in memory of the parishioners of the vanished cemetery.
      12. 🚶 on foot
      13. 7
        🏛 Marina Tsvetaeva's Stone
        Таруса, ул. Ефремова, берег Оки
        A boulder on the high bank of the Oka inscribed “Marina Tsvetaeva would like to lie here”, the fulfilment of her wish from the essay “Khlystovki”.
        The stone stands above the cliff, a 3-minute path from the church
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Marina Tsvetaeva's Stone
        © Nov3238 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The first stone was put up in 1962 with his own stipend by a Kyiv philology student, Semyon Ostrovsky; it stood for just over a week.
        • That stone was removed, partly at the wish of the poet's daughter Ariadna Efron; later pieces of it were made into steps to the house of a Tarusa resident.
        • The present stone, of Tarusa dolomite, was installed on 9 October 1988.
        • The stone stands below the Musatov slope, where the artist Viktor Borisov-Musatov is buried.
        • Tsvetaeva herself was buried in Yelabuga on 2 September 1941; the exact location of her grave is unknown.
      14. 🚶 on foot
      15. 8
        ☕️ Gde-to Zdes (“Somewhere Here”) Café and Bakery
        Таруса, Октябрьская ул., 6А
        ▮▮▮▯▯
        A Tsvetaev pie and coffee — you can take them to go. From there it’s 3 minutes to the bus station
        🍴 A coffee shop and pastry shop by the central square, famous for its baking. What to order: Tsvetaeva pie, raspberry tart, carrot cake and takeaway coffee.

      ↩️ Getting back: Minibus 245 from Tarusa bus station at 16:50 (reaches Serpukhov station 17:35), then express 7048 at 18:08 — Kursky Station at 19:37. Backup: 245 at 17:45 and the 19:37 train (19:20 on weekdays), ≈2 h

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