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Walking routes in Saint Petersburg

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      Rubinshteyna and Liteyny: a long evening

      ⏱ 6 h🚶 2.9 km🍽 5📍 10 stops
      🚶 Moderate — 3–7 km

      An evening along the main bar street with a stop at a rock club and dinner at a smokehouse, then cocktails, the night Fontanka and jazz until late.

      🍽 Food tour🌙 Evening
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🏛 Five Corners (Pyat Uglov)
        An intersection where five streets meet; the corner is guarded by a house with a tall tented turret.
        Start at the intersection of five streets
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Five Corners (Pyat Uglov)
        © Елена Нечипоренко · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Five Corners (Pyat Uglov)
        © Bestalex · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The intersection of Zagorodny Prospekt, Razyezzhaya, Rubinstein and Lomonosov streets has existed since the 1760s.
        • The house with the turret was built in 1913–1914 to a design by the architect Alexander Lishnevsky.
        • Lydia Chukovskaya and the physicist Matvey Bronstein lived in the house with the turret, and Anna Akhmatova often visited them.
        • In 1800 the Commercial School — Russia's first school for merchants' children — moved into the house at the corner of Zagorodny and Lomonosov.
        • Five Corners is mentioned in Dostoevsky's The Idiot and Crime and Punishment, and in Vysotsky's song “A Little Voice from Leningrad”.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🍸 Bekitzer
        ул. Рубинштейна, 40/11
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        Begin with falafel or hummus — the portions are big, you can share
        🍴 An Israeli gastrobar at the end of Rubinstein Street, noisy and open until morning, with Tel Aviv street food. What to order: shawarma in pita, falafel, hummus, shakshuka.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🏛 Tolstoy House
        ул. Рубинштейна, 15–17
        Walk-through courtyards and arches all the way to the Fontanka
        A suite of courtyards leading to the Fontanka
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Tolstoy House
        © Екатерина Борисова · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Tolstoy House
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Tolstoy House
        © Lion10~commonswiki · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Tolstoy House
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The house was built in 1910–1912 to a design by Fyodor Lidval for Count Mikhail Tolstoy, a hero of the defence of Shipka.
        • Because of the plot's irregular shape, the axis of the courtyards is bent, and the arches open to the eye one after another rather than as a single perspective.
        • Flat numbers here have three digits: the first digit is the floor.
        • From 1913 the writer Arkady Averchenko lived in flat No. 203.
        • The courtyards were used for the “London” scenes of Sherlock Holmes with Vasily Livanov, and for “Winter Cherry”.
        • In 1987 about 3,000 people lived in the building's 327 flats.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🚶 Rubinstein Street
        The city's main street for restaurants and bars
        Dinner at any of dozens of restaurants
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Rubinstein Street
        © Bestalex · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Rubinstein Street
        © Екатерина Борисова · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Rubinstein Street
        © Bestalex · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The street got Anton Rubinstein's name in 1929 — the composer lived at No. 38; before that it was Troitskaya Street.
        • No. 7 is a 1932 “commune house” without kitchens in the flats, nicknamed the “tear of socialism”; Olga Berggolts lived here.
        • The Leningrad Rock Club worked at No. 13 from 1981.
        • In the same No. 13, Meyerhold's studio was here in 1913–1914, and now it is the Zazerkalye children's musical theatre.
        • No. 18 houses the Maly Drama Theatre — Theatre of Europe.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🏛 Leningrad Rock Club House
        Санкт-Петербург, ул. Рубинштейна, 13
        In the courtyard of this building in 1981–1991 there was a rock club where Kino, Aquarium and Zoopark played; there is a memorial plaque on the façade.
        A memorial plaque on the facade of house 13: Kino and Aquarium played here
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Leningrad Rock Club House
        © Екатерина Борисова · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The club's founding day is considered to be 7 March 1981 — the first concert of Piknik, Rossiyane, Mify and Zerkalo.
        • The club operated under the Leningrad Inter-Union House of Amateur Art, and the hall held about 200 people.
        • Song lyrics went through a "litovka" — a censorship review — before concerts.
        • The club's annual festivals ran from 1983, and it was they that introduced Kino to the public.
        • Following the Leningrad example, the Moscow Rock Laboratory and the Sverdlovsk Rock Club appeared.
      10. 🚶 on foot
      11. 6
        🍽 Smoke BBQ
        ул. Рубинштейна, 11
        ▮▮▮▮▯
        Dinner: brisket and ribs; book a table on Friday and Saturday
        🍴 A Texas barbecue restaurant with its own smokehouse, one of the best-known meat places on Rubinstein Street. What to order: "That Very Brisket", smoked pork ribs, a burger, creamed corn.
      12. 🚶 on foot
      13. 7
        🍸 El Copitas bar
        Владимирский пр., 18 / Колокольная ул., 2
        ▮▮▮▮▯
        Cocktails — book in advance
        🍴 A Mexican cocktail bar with no sign in a courtyard, once on The World's 50 Best Bars list: agave cocktails, mezcal and tacos. What to order: Avocado Daiquiri, Paloma Maracuyá, shrimp tacos, mezcal with grasshoppers.
      14. 🚶 on foot
      15. 8
        🏛 Anichkov Bridge (Klodt's horses)
        A bridge over the Fontanka on Nevsky with four bronze sculptures of a man taming a horse at its corners.
        Klodt's horses in night lighting — on the way from Vladimirsky to Liteyny
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Anichkov Bridge (Klodt's horses)
        © Ninara from Helsinki, Finland · CC BY 2.0
        • The bridge is named after the settlement of Lieutenant Colonel Mikhail Anichkov's battalion — he also built the first, wooden bridge here in 1716.
        • The current bridge was built in record time in 1841: the first stone was laid on 22 May and traffic opened on 20 November.
        • The cast-iron railing copies that of Schinkel's Palace Bridge in Berlin — Nicholas I liked its pattern.
        • Nicholas I gave the first pair of Klodt's bronze horses to the King of the Two Sicilies, and in 1846 they were sent to Naples.
        • While plaster copies stood on the bridge, Petersburgers joked that the horses would never come back; the bridge was fully completed in 1851.
        • In October 1941 the sculptures were taken down and buried in the garden of the Anichkov Palace to save them from the bombing.
        • The pedestal of the north-west group kept the marks of a shell, with a plaque about the 148,478 shells fired at Leningrad.
      16. 🚶 on foot
      17. 9
        🍸 Union Bar
        Литейный пр., 55
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        In the evening a glass at Union Bar — opens at 18:00
        🍴 A bar with an industrial interior, DJs and concerts, open until morning. What to order: a burger, draught beer, a signature cocktail.
      18. 🚶 on foot
      19. 10
        🍸 The Hat jazz bar
        ул. Белинского, 9
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        A final glass
        🍴 Billy Novik's jazz bar, where live jazz is played every evening in a jam-session format, often with visiting musicians. What to order: whisky, classic cocktails from the bartender.

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