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      Pushkin's apartment, pies and the Stroganov Palace

      ⏱ 4 h🚶 1.2 km🍽 1📍 4 stops
      🐢 A little — under 3 km

      Pushkin's last address on the Moika, hot pies on Nevsky, the Stroganovs' state rooms and the colonnade of Kazan Cathedral — all within fifteen minutes' walk.

      🏛 History and architecture🎨 Art☔️ If it rains
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🖼 Pushkin Museum-Apartment
        наб. Мойки, 12
        🎟 ticket
        A small memorial museum in the Volkonsky house: the poet's study with his books, the drawing room and the nursery.
        Closed Mon, ticket office until 17:00. Entrance from the courtyard of house 12 on the Moika; the poet's study with his books and the sofa on which he died are at the end of the enfilade.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Pushkin Museum-Apartment
        © Florstein · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Pushkin Museum-Apartment
        © Florstein · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Pushkin Museum-Apartment
        © Meistaru 10 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • From September 1836 Pushkin rented the whole ground floor here, eleven rooms — "from one gate to the other", as the contract says.
        • In the study stands the authentic sofa on which the poet died on 29 January 1837.
        • In 2008 forensic experts found traces of blood on the sofa's leather that matched the blood on Pushkin's waistcoat and a lock of his hair.
        • The museum holds the waistcoat Pushkin wore at the duel and his death mask by the sculptor Samuil Halberg.
        • The first museum in the apartment opened on 13 February 1927.
        • In Natalya Nikolaevna's room hangs her portrait, painted by Alexander Bryullov in 1832.
        • In the early 18th century the architect Domenico Trezzini lived on this plot.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        ☕️ Stolle on Nevsky
        Невский пр., 11
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        7 minutes along the Moika to Nevsky. Pies by weight: get two different ones to share — cabbage and lingonberry — and borscht if you got soaked.
        🍴 A pie shop of the St Petersburg chain Stolle at the start of Nevsky: open and closed pies by weight, soup and hot dishes at the counter. What to order: a cabbage pie, a lingonberry or blueberry pie, borscht, homemade pelmeni (dumplings).
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🖼 Stroganov Palace
        Невский пр., 17
        🎟 ticket · a branch of the Russian Museum
        A pink Baroque palace at the corner of Nevsky and the Moika with restored state rooms.
        Across the Moika, entrance only from Nevsky; closed Tue, until 21:00 on Fri and Sat. See the state enfilade and Rastrelli's Great Hall.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Stroganov Palace
        © Александровы АГ · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The palace was built by Rastrelli in 1753–1754 for Baron Sergey Stroganov; the architect lived in the earlier house on the site.
        • Under Rastrelli the palace had fifty state rooms; of his interiors the Great Hall and the ceremonial vestibule survive.
        • The ceiling painting of the Great Hall was done by Giuseppe Valeriani in 1753; the hall was later tactfully reworked by Voronikhin.
        • Voronikhin created a domed Mineral Cabinet in the palace; it was recreated in 2003.
        • The Stroganov collection included Boltraffio's "Portrait of a Youth as St Sebastian", then believed to be by Leonardo.
        • The palace was nationalised in 1918 and handed to the Russian Museum in 1988.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🏛 Kazan Cathedral
        Казанская пл., 2
        Voronikhin's huge cathedral of grey Pudost stone, with a semicircle of 96 columns on Nevsky Prospekt.
        4 minutes along Nevsky. Free entry; inside are the miraculous Kazan Icon and Kutuzov's grave. Women need a scarf.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Kazan Cathedral
        © Flamel123 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The architect Andrey Voronikhin was a former serf of Count Stroganov, who freed him and sent him to study in Paris and Geneva.
        • In 1813 Field Marshal Mikhail Kutuzov was buried in the cathedral's left side chapel.
        • After 1812 trophies were brought to the cathedral: French banners, keys of captured cities and Marshal Davout's baton.
        • In 1834–1836 the iconostasis was clad in silver that Platov's Cossacks had taken from the French; it was melted down in 1922.
        • The monuments to Kutuzov and Barclay de Tolly by Boris Orlovsky were unveiled in 1837, on the 25th anniversary of the victory over Napoleon.
        • From 1932 it housed the Museum of the History of Religion and Atheism, and the first service after the break was held on 4 November 1990.
        • In 1893 the funeral service for Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky was held in the cathedral.

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