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      Liteyny: Akhmatova, Brodsky and an evening on Nekrasova

      ⏱ 8 h🚶 3.7 km🍽 4📍 10 stops
      🚶 Moderate — 3–7 km

      Poetic Liteyny from the Fountain House to “One and a Half Rooms” — with a bookshop, dinner at Duo and a bar named after a Brodsky essay.

      🌙 Evening🏛 History and architecture🎨 Art
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🖼 Fountain House — Akhmatova Museum
        наб. Фонтанки, 34 (вход с Литейного, 53)
        🎟 ticket · The Fountain House garden is free
        The Sheremetevs' Baroque palace on the Fontanka; in the wing is a museum with the poet's rooms and literary exhibitions.
        Akhmatova's apartment in the Sheremetev Palace; come by 14:00, closed on Monday, open until 19:00 on Wednesday.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Fountain House — Akhmatova Museum
        © Ptahh · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The museum opened on 24 June 1989, for Akhmatova's centenary.
        • Akhmatova lived in the south wing from 1924 to 1952, in Nikolay Punin's flat.
        • She first moved into the Fountain House in 1918, to the north wing, to live with her second husband Vladimir Shileyko.
        • The arch at the entrance from Liteyny is covered with poem-graffiti; when there are too many inscriptions, museum staff photograph and paint over them.
        • The collection has over 51,000 items, including a Modigliani drawing from 1911.
        • In 2005 Joseph Brodsky's “American Study” opened on the ground floor.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🌳 Sheremetev Garden
        A quiet garden behind the Fountain House with old trees and benches, away from the noise of Liteyny.
        A garden with Brodsky's “American Study”
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        • Peter I granted the plot on the Fontanka to Field Marshal Boris Sheremetev in 1712.
        • In the 1730s a large pond was dug on the plot, and the soil was used to raise the level of Liteyny Prospekt.
        • In the early 20th century, when apartment buildings were put up on Liteyny, the garden's Grotto, Hermitage, Orangery and Chinese Pavilion were demolished.
        • In the Sheremetev Palace, which the garden adjoins, Orest Kiprensky painted his famous portrait of Pushkin in 1827.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🍽 Ili Restaurant on Liteyny
        Литейный пр., 53
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        A hearty late lunch right at the exit from the Fountain House — there will be no more food until the evening bar.
        🍴 A chain restaurant with a homely interior and a fixed price on most dishes — a convenient lunch right at the entrance to Fountain House. What to order: a weekday set lunch, a salad with fried aubergines, shashlik.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        ✨ Podpisnye Izdaniya Bookshop
        Литейный пр., 57
        Liteyny's legendary bookshop (open since 1926): a big hall of serious fiction, poetry and Petersburg editions, with the Podpisnye Bulochki bakery in the same building.
        Look for the shelf of Petersburg poetry — collections by Akhmatova and Brodsky; coffee with a bun next door at Podpisnye Bulochki.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Podpisnye Izdaniya Bookshop
        © Екатерина Борисова · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • At first the shop worked by subscription: before the war its card index held 200,000 subscribers.
        • The shop never closed during the Siege, even though the buildings it occupied were bombed twice.
        • Podpisnye moved to the New Passage at Liteyny 57 in 1958.
        • In the 1970s–1980s people queued from the night before to subscribe to Dumas, Dostoevsky and Jules Verne.
        • In the 1990s at least 60,000 people signed up here for Tolkien's books.
        • In 2012 the shop was relaunched by Mikhail Ivanov — grandson of Galina Ermakova, who ran it from 1979.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🍸 Union Bar
        Литейный пр., 55
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        In the evening a glass at Union Bar — opens at 18:00
        🍴 A bar with an industrial interior, DJs and concerts, open until morning. What to order: a burger, draught beer, a signature cocktail.
      10. 🚶 on foot
      11. 6
        🖼 Brodsky Museum “A Room and a Half”
        Литейный пр., 24 (дом Мурузи; вход с ул. Короленко, 14)
        🎟 ticket · Entry by timed slots; better to book tickets in advance
        A communal flat in the Muruzi apartment building: the family's empty rooms and an exhibition space next door.
        The rooms where Brodsky grew up; the museum is open until 19:30 — arrive no later than 18:45.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Brodsky Museum “A Room and a Half”
        © Александровы АГ · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • Joseph Brodsky lived in flat No. 28 of this building from 1955 until he left the USSR in 1972.
        • The “A Room and a Half” museum officially opened in May 2020; the architectural concept was developed by Alexander Brodsky.
        • The foundation bought four of the communal flat's five rooms; the last, unbought one was walled off from the museum with a temporary partition.
        • The Muruzi House was built in 1874–1877 in the neo-Moorish style; the inscription on the gate repeats the motto of the emirs of the Alhambra.
        • Dmitry Merezhkovsky and Zinaida Gippius lived in this house for 23 years.
        • In the early 1920s the Petrograd House of Poets worked here on Nikolay Gumilyov's initiative.
      12. 🚶 on foot
      13. 7
        🏛 Transfiguration Cathedral
        Преображенская пл., 1
        A yellow-and-white Empire-style guards' cathedral with five domes, rebuilt by Stasov.
        A fence made of captured cannons
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Transfiguration Cathedral
        © Никонико962 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Transfiguration Cathedral
        © MBH · CC BY 4.0
        Transfiguration Cathedral
        © MBH · CC BY 4.0
        • The first church was built in 1743–1754 in memory of the Preobrazhensky Regiment placing Elizabeth Petrovna on the throne.
        • In 1796 Paul I gave the cathedral the honorary title of “cathedral of the whole Guards”.
        • In August 1825 the cathedral burned down, and Vasily Stasov rebuilt it in the Empire style by 1829.
        • The fence of 1832–1833 was assembled from 102 barrels of captured Turkish cannons, set muzzle-down.
        • The fence barrels still bear the Turkish names of the guns — for example, “Wrath of Allah” and “I Give Only Death”.
        • The cathedral was never closed for services, even in Soviet times.
        • On the feast of the Transfiguration, the Apple Saviour, a fruit market used to be held by the church.
      14. 🚶 on foot
      15. 8
        🍽 Duo Gastrobar
        Кирочная ул., 8, лит. Б
        ▮▮▮▯▯
        Dinner at one of the best gastrobars — book a table in advance on Friday and Saturday.
        🍴 A small gastrobar from the Duoband group with signature cuisine and a summer veranda, open since 2014. What to order: tuna ceviche, tartare, oxtail, lamb with aubergines.
      16. 🚶 on foot
      17. 9
        🚶 Nekrasova Street
        A central street with Art Nouveau and eclectic apartment buildings, small cafés and shops.
        Walk along Nekrasova Street toward Mayakovskogo — the densest bars of the district are here.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Nekrasova Street
        © Florstein · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Nekrasova Street
        © Anastasiya Lvova · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Nekrasova Street
        © Екатерина Борисова · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • In the 18th century the street was called "9th Company" — companies of the Preobrazhensky Regiment were quartered here.
        • Its other old name was Basseynaya: the street led to a pond that supplied water for the Summer Garden fountains.
        • The street has carried Nekrasov's name since 1922.
        • Buildings 3–5 are the Nekrasov telephone exchange, built in 1928–1930 to a design by Alexander Nikolsky.
        • Maltsevsky Market (no. 52) is named after the merchant Ivan Maltsev, who bought the plot in 1906.
      18. 🚶 on foot
      19. 10
        🍸 Poltory Komnaty (One and a Half Rooms)
        ул. Маяковского, 34
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        The bar is named after a Brodsky essay — a logical finale; open until 2–3 a.m.
        🍴 A cocktail bar from the Perfect Bars Team, a Where2Drink 2026 laureate: there is no menu, the bartenders build a drink to the guest's taste and serve it with a snack. What to order: a smoky Bloody Mary, a signature cocktail made to your request, tartare.

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