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Walking routes in Saint Petersburg

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      The Silver Age: from Akhmatova to jazz

      ⏱ 10 h🚶 6 km🍽 4📍 10 stops
      🚶 Moderate — 3–7 km

      Literary Liteyny by day, the Stray Dog cabaret and a jazz bar by night.

      🌙 Evening🏛 History and architecture🎨 Art
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        ☕️ Schastye café on Rubinstein Street
        ул. Рубинштейна, 15/17
        ▮▮▮▯▯
        Breakfast at Tolstoy House
        🍴 A restaurant of the Schastye (“Happiness”) chain in the Tolstoy House: breakfasts all day, European cuisine and desserts from their own pastry shop. What to order: syrniki, a French omelette, honey cake, Schastye chocolates with coffee.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🖼 Fountain House — Akhmatova Museum
        наб. Фонтанки, 34 (вход с Литейного, 53)
        🎟 ticket · The Fountain House garden is free
        The Sheremetevs' Baroque palace on the Fontanka; in the wing is a museum with the poet's rooms and literary exhibitions.
        The Akhmatova Museum
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Fountain House — Akhmatova Museum
        © Ptahh · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The museum opened on 24 June 1989, for Akhmatova's centenary.
        • Akhmatova lived in the south wing from 1924 to 1952, in Nikolay Punin's flat.
        • She first moved into the Fountain House in 1918, to the north wing, to live with her second husband Vladimir Shileyko.
        • The arch at the entrance from Liteyny is covered with poem-graffiti; when there are too many inscriptions, museum staff photograph and paint over them.
        • The collection has over 51,000 items, including a Modigliani drawing from 1911.
        • In 2005 Joseph Brodsky's “American Study” opened on the ground floor.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🌳 Sheremetev Garden
        A quiet garden behind the Fountain House with old trees and benches, away from the noise of Liteyny.
        The Fountain House garden
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        • Peter I granted the plot on the Fontanka to Field Marshal Boris Sheremetev in 1712.
        • In the 1730s a large pond was dug on the plot, and the soil was used to raise the level of Liteyny Prospekt.
        • In the early 20th century, when apartment buildings were put up on Liteyny, the garden's Grotto, Hermitage, Orangery and Chinese Pavilion were demolished.
        • In the Sheremetev Palace, which the garden adjoins, Orest Kiprensky painted his famous portrait of Pushkin in 1827.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🖼 Brodsky Museum “A Room and a Half”
        Литейный пр., 24 (дом Мурузи; вход с ул. Короленко, 14)
        🎟 ticket · Entry by timed slots; better to book tickets in advance
        A communal flat in the Muruzi apartment building: the family's empty rooms and an exhibition space next door.
        “A Room and a Half”
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Brodsky Museum “A Room and a Half”
        © Александровы АГ · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • Joseph Brodsky lived in flat No. 28 of this building from 1955 until he left the USSR in 1972.
        • The “A Room and a Half” museum officially opened in May 2020; the architectural concept was developed by Alexander Brodsky.
        • The foundation bought four of the communal flat's five rooms; the last, unbought one was walled off from the museum with a temporary partition.
        • The Muruzi House was built in 1874–1877 in the neo-Moorish style; the inscription on the gate repeats the motto of the emirs of the Alhambra.
        • Dmitry Merezhkovsky and Zinaida Gippius lived in this house for 23 years.
        • In the early 1920s the Petrograd House of Poets worked here on Nikolay Gumilyov's initiative.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🍽 Duo Gastrobar
        Кирочная ул., 8, лит. Б
        ▮▮▮▯▯
        Lunch
        🍴 A small gastrobar from the Duoband group with signature cuisine and a summer veranda, open since 2014. What to order: tuna ceviche, tartare, oxtail, lamb with aubergines.
      10. 🚶 on foot
      11. 6
        🖼 Stieglitz Museum
        Соляной пер., 13–15
        🎟 ticket
        The incredible glass dome of the Great Hall
        A grand hall under a glass dome
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Stieglitz Museum
        © Florstein · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Stieglitz Museum
        © Andris Malygin · CC BY 3.0
        Stieglitz Museum
        © Andris Malygin · CC BY 3.0
        • The museum was built in 1885–1895 to a design by Maximilian Messmacher and opened on 30 April 1896 in the presence of the imperial family.
        • The construction and the purchase of exhibits were paid for from the interest on the capital bequeathed by Baron Alexander Stieglitz.
        • The Great Exhibition Hall under the dome measures 34 by 17 metres and is 22 metres high.
        • The dome was originally made of coloured painted glass from Zettler's Munich factory, with a pattern of golden stars.
        • During the war a blast wave knocked out the dome's glazing, and in 1947 it was glazed with clear glass.
        • For the facade Messmacher took motifs from the Venetian Library of St Mark and the Palazzo Corner.
        • In the 1920s the collection was handed out to other museums, and in 1947 the exhibits began to return.
      12. 🚶 on foot
      13. 7
        🌳 Summer Garden
        🚪 entrance on the Moika side, by the Carp Pond
        🎟 partly ticketed · The garden is free; the Summer Palace is ticketed
        Peter I's garden with marble statues, fountains, the Summer Palace and the famous railing on the Neva side.
        A walk
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Summer Garden
        © ElenaLitera · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Summer Garden
        © Florstein · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Summer Garden
        © Евгений Со · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • The garden was laid out by order of Peter I in 1704, on the site of the manor of the Swedish major von Konow.
        • Most of the marble statues are by Italian masters of the turn of the 17th–18th century; they were bought in Italy by Peter's agents.
        • The sections of the Neva railing were forged in 1773–1777 at the merchant Denisov's Tula works.
        • The storm and flood of 21 September 1777 destroyed the garden's fountains, and it was then decided not to restore them.
        • Rossi's Coffee House (1826) was rebuilt from the “Grotto” pavilion, and Charlemagne's wooden Tea House (1827) is finished to look like stone.
        • The monument to Krylov by Pyotr Klodt was put up in 1855; the pedestal is decorated with scenes from the fables.
        • After restoration the garden had its grand reopening on 27 May 2012.
      14. 🚶 on foot
      15. 8
        🏛 Arts Square
        Rossi's ensemble with theatres, the Philharmonia and the Russian Museum around a garden with a monument to Pushkin.
        Theatres and Pushkin
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Arts Square
        © Peterburg23 · CC BY 3.0
        • The square was first called Mikhailovskaya — after the palace of Grand Duke Mikhail Pavlovich, built to Rossi's design.
        • In the early 1920s it was Lassalle Square, and it has had its present name since 26 September 1940.
        • The garden was laid out by decree of Nicholas I from 1827: Rossi's layout, planting by the gardener Joseph Bush, "in the English style".
        • The monument to Pushkin by Mikhail Anikushin was installed in the garden in 1957.
        • In 1895 the Mikhailovsky Palace was bought by the treasury and became the Russian Museum of Emperor Alexander III.
      16. 🚶 on foot
      17. 9
        🍸 Stray Dog Art Café
        Итальянская ул., 4
        ▮▮▮▯▯
        Dinner and an evening in an art basement
        🍴 The basement of the Silver Age poets, frequented by Akhmatova and Mayakovsky: today an art café with performances and concerts. What to order: vinaigrette salad with herring, pâté, blini with tea.
      18. 🚶 on foot
      19. 10
        🍸 The Hat jazz bar
        ул. Белинского, 9
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        Jazz until late
        🍴 Billy Novik's jazz bar, where live jazz is played every evening in a jam-session format, often with visiting musicians. What to order: whisky, classic cocktails from the bartender.

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