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Walking routes in Moscow

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      The Kotelnicheskaya skyscraper and Goncharnaya Sloboda

      ⏱ 1 h 10 min🚶 1.4 km🍽 1📍 4 stops
      🐢 A little — under 3 km

      A Stalin-era skyscraper at the confluence of the Yauza and the Moskva, 17th-century churches of quiet Goncharnaya Sloboda and the entrance to a secret bunker. You can finish with khinkali near Taganskaya.

      🏛 History and architecture☔️ If it rains⏱ An hour or so
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🏛 Kotelnicheskaya Embankment skyscraper
        A residential Stalinist skyscraper at the confluence of the Yauza and the Moskva River, 176 m tall, with three wings and a spire.
        The skyscraper on Kotelnicheskaya, with the Illusion cinema inside
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Kotelnicheskaya Embankment skyscraper
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Kotelnicheskaya Embankment skyscraper
        © Safa.daneshvar · CC BY 4.0
        • The first block along Kotelnicheskaya Embankment was built as early as 1938–1940, and the high-rise part in 1948–1952.
        • The authors were Dmitry Chechulin and Andrei Rostkovsky; Chechulin, after falling out of favour, also received a flat in this building.
        • Originally the building had 540 flats.
        • Faina Ranevskaya, Galina Ulanova, Alexander Tvardovsky, Yevgeny Yevtushenko and Vasily Aksyonov lived here.
        • The Galina Ulanova apartment museum, opened in 2004, operates in the building.
        • The cinema in the building received the name Illyuzion in 1966 and began showing films from the State Film Fund.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🚶 Goncharnaya Sloboda (Potters' Quarter)
        A quiet district on a hill beyond Taganka with 17th-century churches and the low-rise buildings of the former potters.
        Churches of Goncharnaya Sloboda
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Goncharnaya Sloboda (Potters' Quarter)
        © Lodo27 from Moscow, Russia · CC BY-SA 3.0
        Goncharnaya Sloboda (Potters' Quarter)
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • In the 16th century the potters were moved out beyond the Yauza, to Shvivaya (then Vshivaya) Hill, farther from the Kremlin because of the danger of fire.
        • The potters' workshops were first excavated in 1947–1948 while a pit was being dug for the skyscraper on Kotelnicheskaya.
        • In 1667 Belarusian tile-makers from the Resurrection Monastery on the Istra were moved to the settlement.
        • From the 18th century the former settlement was built up with noblemen's estates and the houses of Old Believer merchants.
        • A memorial sign with a clock on Goncharnaya Embankment, by the Bolshoy Krasnokholmsky Bridge, recalls the settlement.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🖼 Bunker-42 on Taganka
        5-й Котельнический пер., 11
        🎟 ticket · guided tours only
        A former Cold War backup command post with tunnels under the street and halls for tours.
        A secret bunker 65 m underground; we look from outside; inside is separate, another 1.5-hour tour
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Bunker-42 on Taganka
        © Fastboy · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • The bunker was built from 1950 using metro technology; its tunnels connect to Taganskaya station.
        • It was the backup command post of Long-Range Aviation, a classified "Facility No. 20" covering more than 7,000 m².
        • During the Cuban Missile Crisis of 1962 the bunker operated autonomously, with up to 2,500 people on duty.
        • The museum opened in 2006, when a private company bought the former facility.
        • From the military furnishings, the airtight doors, steel wall lining, an old telephone and a portrait of Karl Marx have survived.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        ☕️ Starik Khinkalych khinkali house
        ул. Верхняя Радищевская, 13, стр. 2
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        Lunch five minutes from Bunker-42
        🍴 An inexpensive Georgian khinkali house five minutes from Bunker-42 and Taganskaya metro. What to order: lamb khinkali (Georgian dumplings), mini khinkali in pepper sauce, crispy aubergine salad, Adjarian khachapuri.

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