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      Mikhalkovo: Gothic towers and the Golovinsky Ponds

      ⏱ 1 h 50 min🚶 3.5 km🍽 1📍 4 stops
      🚶 Moderate — 3–7 km

      An hour and a half in the north, in the Golovinsky district: the Panin estate with its “Bazhenov-style” towers, coffee in the outbuilding, a cascade of ponds and the lone bell tower of a vanished monastery.

      🏛 History and architecture🌳 Parks and nature🏘 Off the centre⏱ An hour or so
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🏛 Mikhalkovo Estate and Cultural Center
        Михалковская ул., 38
        🎟 partly ticketed · the gates and towers can be seen from the street; the courtyard and museum exhibition are open Fri–Sun, the exhibition by ticket
        Count Panin's estate with red-brick "Gothic" gate towers of the 18th century, attributed to Bazhenov; in the wing is a cultural centre with a museum exhibition and shows.
        The east gate with towers is 200 m from exit 1 of the Koptevo MCC station. Better to come Friday to Sunday: then the courtyard and exhibition are open; on weekdays the towers can be seen only from Mikhalkovskaya Street.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Mikhalkovo Estate and Cultural Center
        © Muscovite20 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Mikhalkovo Estate and Cultural Center
        © Gennady Grachev from Moscow, Russia · CC BY 2.0
        Mikhalkovo Estate and Cultural Center
        © A.Savin · CC BY-SA 3.0
        Mikhalkovo Estate and Cultural Center
        © Gennady Grachev from Moscow, Russia · CC BY 2.0
        • From 1680 Mikhalkovo belonged to the Princes Dashkov; Ekaterina Dashkova lived here in 1764–1769 and signed herself "Countess Mikhalkova" abroad.
        • In 1769 Dashkova sold the estate to her uncle Nikita Panin, and in 1772 he gave it to his brother, General-in-Chief Pyotr Panin.
        • The ensemble with towers was built in 1780–1784; the design is attributed to Vasily Bazhenov, and the architect Pyotr Plyuskov built it.
        • The crescents and kokoshnik gables on the towers recall the capture of Bender by Panin's army.
        • From the early 19th century the estate housed a calico factory and then a cloth factory, developed by Wilhelm Jokisch.
        • The cultural centre in the wing opened in autumn 2024.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        ☕️ Mikhalkovo Coffee Hall
        Михалковская ул., 38 (флигель усадьбы)
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        In the outbuilding next to the museum building. Only 20 seats — there can be a queue on weekend afternoons. Sour-cream-dough pirozhki can be taken to the ponds.
        🍴 An intimate 20-seat coffee shop in the estate wing, in classical interiors. What to order: the "Princess's Whim" dessert in honour of Dashkova, or pies made with sour-cream dough.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        • The 20-seat coffee hall is set up in the estate wing, next to the museum building.
        • The classical interiors echo the history of the estate, which in the 18th century belonged to the Dashkovs and Panins.
        • The signature "Mikhalkovo-style" desserts tell the story of the estate: the meringue "Princess's Whim" is dedicated to Ekaterina Dashkova.
        • The food sets are tied to the cultural centre's exhibition and shows — for example, the "Russian Estate" set and the Chill Vinyl set of the vinyl library.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🌳 Golovinskiye Ponds
        Головинский район, между Михалковской ул. и Кронштадтским б-ром
        🆓 free entry
        A cascade of estate ponds on the Golovinsky stream — the Large and Small Golovinsky with paths along the banks, gazebos and ducks.
        From the estate go west, to the ponds. Walk around the Big Golovinsky Pond along the shore: that’s the best view of the estate’s towers.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Golovinskiye Ponds
        © Sunny365days · CC BY 4.0
        Golovinskiye Ponds
        © Dmitriy 92 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Golovinskiye Ponds
        © Sunny365days · CC BY 4.0
        • The ponds were made on the Golovinsky stream back under the Dashkovs and enlarged under the Panins when the landscape park was laid out.
        • In 1778 the Englishman William Coxe described an English park here with a "large pond fringed with trees".
        • Pyotr Panin called Mikhalkovo "our Merry place" in his letters.
        • Downstream the stream is piped underground and is called the Golovinsky Canal.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🏛 Bell tower of Kazan Golovino Monastery
        Кронштадтский б-р, 29, стр. 3
        All that is left of a convent in the Russian style: a tall brick bell tower among 1970s buildings on Kronshtadtsky Boulevard.
        From the ponds along the Golovinsky canal and Kronshtadtsky Boulevard it’s about 15 minutes. The bell tower stands right in a courtyard of apartment blocks — don’t miss it, it’s set slightly back.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Bell tower of Kazan Golovino Monastery
        © Gennady Grachev from Moscow, Russia · CC BY 2.0
        • The convent's history began in 1876 with an almshouse that the merchant Nikita Sidorov set up in the village of Golovino.
        • The main shrine was the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God, hence the monastery's name.
        • After the revolution they tried to preserve the monastery as a cooperative, but in the 1920s it was closed and a sanatorium was set up here.
        • In the 1970s all the buildings except the bell tower were demolished for high-rises, and the cemetery was destroyed.
        • The bell tower is now assigned to the Church of the Sign in Aksinyino.

      ↩️ Getting back: From the bell tower 10–12 minutes along Kronshtadtsky Boulevard to Vodny Stadion metro

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