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      Petrovka in the rain: TsUM, the arcade and Central Market

      ⏱ 3 h 30 min🚶 1.4 km🍽 2📍 4 stops
      🐢 A little — under 3 km

      Short dashes along Petrovka: a department store with spires, a glass gallery of 1906, a cocktail in a hidden bar and dinner in the food hall on Trubnaya.

      🍽 Food tour🌙 Evening🏛 History and architecture☔️ If it rains
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🏛 TsUM (formerly Muir & Mirrielees)
        ул. Петровка, 2
        A Gothic building with spires and huge windows, Moscow's first department store, built to a design by Klein.
        3 minutes from Teatralnaya metro. Open until 22:00, from 11:00 on Sunday: walk straight through the ground floor and see from inside the Klein Gothic and the huge windows of Moscow’s first department store.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        TsUM (formerly Muir & Mirrielees)
        © Юрий Д.К. · CC BY 4.0
        TsUM (formerly Muir & Mirrielees)
        © Юрий Д.К. · CC BY 4.0
        • The Scots Andrew Muir and Archibald Mirrielees registered the Muir & Mirrielees trademark in 1857.
        • The store on Teatralnaya Square opened in 1885 as a shop of ladies' hats and haberdashery.
        • Here prices were first written on the goods themselves, so haggling stopped; returns were accepted too.
        • After fires in 1892 and 1900, Roman Klein built a seven-story Neo-Gothic building, opened in 1908.
        • The store has been called TsUM since 1933, and during the war the building housed barracks.
        • The 1974 wing is in the same style as the historic one, and in 2007–2008 an extension doubled the area.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🏛 Petrovsky Passage
        ул. Петровка, 10
        A shopping arcade of 1906 with two tiers of shops along a long gallery between Petrovka and Neglinnaya.
        Across Petrovka and 2 minutes up: enter from Petrovka and walk the gallery under the glass roof to Neglinnaya and back. Open until 22:00.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Petrovsky Passage
        © A.Savin · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • The passage was built by the merchant's wife Vera Firsanova, owner of the Sandunovsky Baths and the Serednikovo estate.
        • The design was by Sergei Kalugin and Boris Freudenberg, who also designed the Sandunovsky Baths.
        • The passage opened on 20 February 1906 and had more than fifty shopping pavilions.
        • The glass vaults are often attributed to Shukhov, but that is an urban legend: the structures were made by the Arthur Koppel firm.
        • Electricity for the passage's illumination came from a power station in the same Sandunovsky Baths.
        • In the 1930s Dirizhablestroy (the airship construction bureau) worked here, where the Italian designer Umberto Nobile served in 1931–1936.
        • The passage's auction hall is described in Ilf and Petrov's "The Twelve Chairs".
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🍸 Mendeleev Bar
        ул. Петровка, 20/1 (цокольный этаж)
        ▮▮▮▮▯
        Another 3 minutes along Petrovka, entrance to the basement floor. Cocktails and Asian snacks Tuesday to Saturday from 18:00, better to book a table. The bar is closed on Sunday and Monday — then go straight to the market.
        🍴 A hidden cocktail bar on Petrovka with Asian food and live music; open Tue–Sat from 18:00, and without a reservation you may not be let in. What to order: the Ninja and Vseslav cocktails, a handroll with spicy scallop, salmon tartare.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🧺 Tsentralny Market
        Рождественский б-р, 1
        ▮▮▮▯▯
        10 minutes via Petrovsky Boulevard to Trubnaya Square: fifty food counters until 23:00, you can take a dish from different ones and sit together. Music plays in the evening.
        🍴 A food hall on Trubnaya: around fifty corners with cuisines from around the world, and music in the evenings. What to order: pho bo at PhoBo, tom yum at Tom Yam, pinsa at Pinzeria by Bontempi, khinkali (Georgian dumplings) at Gruziny Zdes.

      ↩️ Getting back: From the market 3 minutes to Trubnaya or Tsvetnoy Bulvar metro

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