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      Povarskaya: from mansions to Constructivism

      ⏱ 3 h🚶 2.8 km🍽 1📍 5 stops
      🐢 A little — under 3 km

      A street of noble estates, the "Rostovs' house", Chekhov and the cult Narkomfin Building.

      🏛 History and architecture🎨 Art
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🚶 Povarskaya Street
        A street in the Arbat area with 18th–19th-century mansions and embassies, a quiet corner just steps from New Arbat.
        Art Nouveau and Empire mansions
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Povarskaya Street
        © Alexxx1979 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Povarskaya Street
        © Andreykor · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The name comes from the palace Povarskaya (cooks') settlement: in 1573 the tsar's kitchen was served by 477 people.
        • The neighbouring Khlebny, Skatertny, Stolovy and Nozhovy lanes are named after the trades of kitchen servants.
        • From 1923 to 1992 the street was called Vorovskogo Street.
        • The Dolgorukov-Sollogub estate (no. 52) is traditionally considered the prototype of the Rostovs' house in War and Peace.
        • The Church of St Simeon the Stylite was built in 1676–1679; Gogol's death is recorded in its parish register.
        • Bunin lived on Povarskaya from October 1917 to May 1918, and in 2016 a small park on the street was named after him.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🍽 CDL Restaurant
        Поварская ул., 50/53
        ▮▮▮▮▯
        Lunch in the oak hall of the writers' club
        🍴 A restaurant in the mansion of the Central House of Writers on Povarskaya, with oak-panelled interiors. What to order: venison pelmeni (dumplings) with mushroom uzvar, chicken Kiev, Kremlyovskiye syrniki for breakfast, cranberry liqueur.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🖼 Chekhov House Museum
        Садовая-Кудринская ул., 6
        🎟 ticket
        A two-storey red-brick house on Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya where Chekhov lived with his family in 1886–1890.
        The "Chest of Drawers House" where Chekhov lived
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Chekhov House Museum
        © Olga North · Public domain
        • Chekhov called the house "the chest of drawers", for its unusual layout with projections and its red walls.
        • The Chekhovs rented the apartment from Dr Yakov Korneev for 650 roubles a year.
        • The Steppe, A Dreary Story and the plays Ivanov, The Bear and The Proposal were written here.
        • Chekhov also saw patients here, daily from 12 to 3 o'clock by his own account.
        • Korolenko, Pleshcheyev, Gilyarovsky and the architect Fyodor Shekhtel were among the visitors.
        • From here on 21 April 1890 Chekhov set off on his journey to Sakhalin.
        • The permanent exhibition opened on 14 July 1954, for the 50th anniversary of the writer's death.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🏛 Kudrinskaya Square skyscraper
        A residential Stalinist skyscraper of 1954 on Vosstaniya Square, with stepped wings and a spire.
        One of the seven Stalinist skyscrapers
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Kudrinskaya Square skyscraper
        © Vsatinet · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The skyscraper was built in 1948–1954, designed by Mikhail Posokhin and Ashot Mndoyants.
        • Construction was overseen by the Ministry of Aviation Industry, and many flats went to aircraft designers and test pilots, hence the nickname "House of Aviators".
        • The central part has 33 floors, 22 of them residential.
        • For Soviet housing the building was innovative: underground parking, a pram room on the ground floor, centralised dust removal.
        • At the bottom were Gastronom No. 15, covering 6,000 m² and the city's largest shop, and the 540-seat Plamya cinema.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🏛 Narkomfin Building
        Новинский б-р, 25, корп. 1
        🎟 ticket · a residential building: inside only by guided tour with advance booking
        Moisei Ginzburg's Constructivist communal house on pilotis (stilts) with ribbon windows.
        A tour of the 1930 communal house — by appointment
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Narkomfin Building
        © Retired electrician · CC0
        • The building was built in 1928–1930 by Moisei Ginzburg, Ignaty Milinis and engineer Sergei Prokhorov; Ginzburg called it an "experimental house of a transitional type".
        • The People's Commissar of Finance Nikolai Milyutin built himself a two-level penthouse on the roof, in a volume intended for a ventilation chamber.
        • The colours of the flats were chosen by the Bauhaus professor Hinnerk Scheper; the brightest tone was applied to the ceilings.
        • Residents were offered meals in the canteen of the communal block and a mechanical laundry for their linen.
        • The building has three times been on the list of the "100 world buildings under threat of destruction"; in 2016–2020 it was restored by Ginzburg Architects.

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