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      Ordynka to Vspolye: tiles, Baroque and Beauvais's rotunda

      ⏱ 1 h 15 min🚶 2.4 km🍽 1📍 6 stops
      🐢 A little — under 3 km

      From the “peacock” tiles of the royal church on Polyanka along Bolshaya Ordynka — through five eras of church architecture to Tretyakovskaya.

      🏛 History and architecture🎨 Art⏱ An hour or so
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🏛 Church of St Gregory of Neocaesarea on Polyanka
        ул. Большая Полянка, 29А
        A red "royal" church with a belt of "peacock's eye" tiles — one of the most ornate churches of Zamoskvorechye, right by Polyanka metro.
        Exit from Polyanka — the church is right opposite. Walk round it: the belt of “peacock eye” tiles and the crowns on the crosses.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Church of St Gregory of Neocaesarea on Polyanka
        © MikSed · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • According to tradition, on this spot in 1445 Vasily the Dark, returning from Tatar captivity, saw Moscow and vowed to build a church.
        • The present church was consecrated on 1 March 1679.
        • About 9,000 "peacock's eye" tiles by the master Stepan Polubes and his colleagues went into the decoration.
        • The crosses are topped with crowns, to show that it is a royal church.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🏛 Church of St Catherine on Vspolye
        ул. Большая Ордынка, 60/6
        Karl Blank's Baroque church with a fence and gates at the end of Ordynka — rebuilt on Catherine II's orders.
        Through the lanes to Bolshaya Ordynka and to its end — 8 minutes. The Baroque gate and fence are by Carl Blank.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Church of St Catherine on Vspolye
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • A wooden church was put up in the 16th century at the Yekaterininskaya linen-bleaching settlement, and rebuilt in stone in 1657.
        • In 1766–1775, on Catherine II's orders, the architect Karl Blank rebuilt the church in the late Baroque style.
        • In 1931 the church was closed; the building was occupied by a design bureau and the Grabar art workshop.
        • In 1992–2006 it was a representation church (podvorye) of the Orthodox Church in America.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🏛 Church of the Iveron Icon on Vspolye
        ул. Большая Ордынка, 39
        A severe neoclassical church on Ordynka; in the courtyard between it and the neighbouring estate stands Ernst Neizvestny's sculpture "Rebirth".
        Back north along Ordynka, 5 minutes. In the courtyard behind the church is Ernst Neizvestny's “Rebirth”.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Church of the Iveron Icon on Vspolye
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • The first stone church was built here no later than 1673.
        • The present church was erected in 1791–1802; the design is attributed to Ivan Yegotov, but documents do not confirm this.
        • The side chapels are consecrated in the names of St George the Victorious and St John the Warrior.
        • Ernst Neizvestny made the "Rebirth" sculpture in 2000.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🏛 Church of St Nicholas in Pyzhi
        ул. Большая Ордынка, 27А/8
        A white 17th-century church with a tented bell tower — a streltsy church, named after Colonel Bogdan Pyzhov.
        Another 4 minutes along Ordynka. A white church with a tent-roofed bell tower, and next to it a red-brick clergy house.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Church of St Nicholas in Pyzhi
        © Никонико962 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Church of St Nicholas in Pyzhi
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The wooden church was founded no earlier than 1593, at the same time as the Streletskaya Sloboda.
        • It is named after the streltsy colonel Bogdan Pyzhov, who commanded the regiment from 1668; Pyzhevsky Lane is named after him too.
        • The streltsy built the stone church in the second half of the 17th century.
        • The church was closed in 1934; nearby survives the clergy house of 1890 by the architect Alexander Nikiforov.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🏛 Church of the Joy of All Who Sorrow on Ordynka
        ул. Большая Ордынка, 20
        Osip Bove's rotunda and a bell tower by Bazhenov — a church that did not lose its furnishings even after it was closed.
        5 minutes to Ordynka, 20. Go in: Beauvais's rotunda inside is bright and tall.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Church of the Joy of All Who Sorrow on Ordynka
        © Mike1979 Russia · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The Church of the Transfiguration on Ordynka is known from 1625, and is called by the name of its side chapel of the "Joy of All Who Sorrow" icon.
        • The refectory and bell tower were built in 1783–1791 to a design by Vasily Bazhenov.
        • In 1823–1836 the old church was replaced by a rotunda designed by Osip Bove.
        • In 1933 the church was closed and its bells removed, but the interior decoration survived.
      10. 🚶 on foot
      11. 6
        🍽 Tutta La Vita restaurant · 🧸 play area
        ул. Большая Ордынка, 20, стр. 7
        ▮▮▮▯▯
        In the courtyards of the same block. Pasta and coffee; it's 3 minutes from here to Tretyakovskaya.
        🍴 An Italian trattoria in a mansion a couple of steps from the Tretyakov Gallery: a kids' room with board games, books and toys, plus entertainers and workshops on weekends. Try: pizza, pasta, fire-grilled fish; for kids, turkey pelmeni and spaghetti with duck meatballs.

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