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      Devichye Pole: Pirogov, the clinics and Pogodin's izba

      ⏱ 1 h 25 min🚶 3.5 km🍽 1📍 5 stops
      🚶 Moderate — 3–7 km

      An hour around the town of university clinics: a surgeon with a skull in his hand, a tent-roofed church saved from demolition and a carved log house that started the “Russian style”.

      🏛 History and architecture🎨 Art⏱ An hour or so
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        ☕️ Brusnika café on Obolensky Lane
        Оболенский пер., 9, корп. 1
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        From Frunzenskaya, 5 minutes along Obolensky Lane. Take a coffee with you — after this there will be only churches and little parks.
        🍴 A branch of the Brusnika café-patisserie chain with home cooking, a kids' menu and a summer terrace. Try: salmon quiche, kalitki (Karelian pasties), lasagna, a berry blini cake.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🏛 Pirogov Monument on Devichye Pole
        Большая Пироговская ул., сквер у дома 2
        The bronze surgeon Pirogov sits in an armchair with a skull in his hand in front of the university clinics. It is Moscow's first monument to a doctor.
        Come out onto Bolshaya Pirogovskaya and walk to the clinics. Walk round the fence: on each side of the pedestal is a quotation from Pirogov in a bronze wreath.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Pirogov Monument on Devichye Pole
        © Samovarov S.I. · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The monument was unveiled in 1897; the sculptor was Vladimir Sherwood.
        • It is Moscow's first monument to a doctor; since 2007 it has been a federal cultural heritage site.
        • In his left hand Pirogov holds a skull, a symbol of anatomy, with his gaze turned upward; the monument is about seven metres tall.
        • On the four sides of the pedestal, in bronze wreaths, are engraved excerpts from Pirogov's writings.
        • Medical students had a belief: rub the skull and you'll pass your exams; the probe from the right hand and the cups with snakes disappeared over time.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🏛 Church of the Archangel Michael at the Clinics
        ул. Еланского, 2А
        A red-brick tented church in the middle of the university clinics campus: it was nearly demolished in 1978 and restored by 2002.
        Across the road, deep in the clinics on Yelansky Street. The tents and the west wall are a 1990s restoration: in 1978 they began to demolish the church.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Church of the Archangel Michael at the Clinics
        © Alexxx1979 · CC0
        Church of the Archangel Michael at the Clinics
        © Екатерина Борисова · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The church was built in 1894–1897 with funds from Professor Alexander Makeyev at the clinics of Moscow University's medical faculty.
        • The design was by the architect Mikhail Nikiforov, and Alexander Meisner did the stability calculations.
        • In 1931 the church was closed and its tented roofs broken down, and in 1978 demolition began for the medical institute's catering block — protests by architects stopped it.
        • The building was returned to the Church in 1992, and restoration was finished by 2002.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🏛 Pogodin Izba (Pogodinskaya Izba)
        Погодинская ул., 12А
        A carved wooden terem of 1856 — a gift to the historian Mikhail Pogodin. This izba started the "Russian style" in Moscow's architecture.
        5–7 minutes along Pogodinskaya. The izba is behind a fence, so we look from outside: find the carved window frames and the balcony of the upper room under the ridge.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Pogodin Izba (Pogodinskaya Izba)
        © Бутко Елена · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The izba was built in 1856 to a design by Nikolai Nikitin as a gift for the historian and collector Mikhail Pogodin.
        • The construction was paid for by the entrepreneur Vasily Kokorev; it all cost 2,200 silver roubles.
        • The log house, 11.9 by 6.5 metres, was built with round-notch joints, and on the second floor is a svetlitsa (bright upper room) with a balcony.
        • The izba was an outbuilding of Pogodin's large estate; the main house was destroyed in the wartime bombing of Moscow.
        • The building gave an impetus to the "Russian style" in architecture of the second half of the 19th century.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🏛 Church of St Demetrius of Prilutsky on Devichye Pole
        Абрикосовский пер., 1, стр. 2
        A small white church in the Byzantine spirit among the clinic buildings. Nearby, in Abrikosovsky Lane, is a bust of the pathologist Abrikosov.
        Go down to Abrikosovsky Lane. In front of the pathological anatomy department nearby is a bust of Abrikosov. From here it's 7–8 minutes to Sportivnaya.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Church of St Demetrius of Prilutsky on Devichye Pole
        © Abogomazova · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • It began as a chapel at the clinics opened on Devichye Pole in 1890; it was consecrated as a church in 1903 after a rebuild designed by Boris Kozhevnikov.
        • It is the only church in Moscow dedicated to the Vologda wonderworker Demetrius of Prilutsky.
        • In the 1950s the building housed the laboratory of Vladimir Demikhov, one of the first researchers of organ transplantation.
        • The church was returned to the Church in 1990.
        • The bust of Academician Alexei Abrikosov was placed nearby, in front of the pathological anatomy department, in 1960.

      ↩️ Getting back: from the church, 7–8 minutes on foot along Abrikosovsky Lane and Usachyova Street to Sportivnaya metro

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