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Walking routes in Moscow

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      Patriarch’s Ponds at night: Bulgakov and dinner by the pond

      ⏱ 3 h 15 min🚶 2.8 km🍽 1📍 7 stops
      🐢 A little — under 3 km

      The mansions of Spiridonovka at dusk, the lights around Patriarch’s Pond and an unhurried dinner on Malaya Bronnaya. Set off at 17:30–18:00.

      🌙 Evening🏛 History and architecture
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🏛 Nikitskiye Vorota
        A square at the junction of boulevards with a rotunda fountain of Pushkin and Goncharova and the Empire-style Church of the Great Ascension.
        Start at 17:30 at the Pushkin and Goncharova rotunda: at dusk the Church of the Great Ascension looks especially good
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Nikitskiye Vorota
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The square is named after the Nikitsky Gate of the White City and the Nikitsky Monastery, which was demolished in the 1930s.
        • In 1831 Pushkin and Natalia Goncharova were married in the Church of the Great Ascension at Nikitskiye Vorota.
        • The rotunda fountain Natalia and Alexander, with figures of the newlyweds, was installed in 1999, for Pushkin's 200th anniversary.
        • Sergey Merkurov's monument to Kliment Timiryazev has stood on the square since 1923.
        • Mark Rozovsky's U Nikitskikh Vorot Theatre grew out of a studio he founded in 1983.
        • The TASS building at the corner of Tverskoy Boulevard is a recognisable late Soviet modernist structure of the 1970s.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🚶 Spiridonovka Street
        A street between Patriarch's Ponds and Nikitskaya with Art Nouveau mansions and quiet courtyards.
        Don’t hurry: the Morozova mansion and the Ryabushinsky house with its iris mosaic look great in lamplight
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Spiridonovka Street
        © Sergey Norin from Moscow, Russia · CC BY 2.0
        Spiridonovka Street
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The street is named after the Church of St Spyridon of Trimythous on the Goat Marsh, patron of shepherds; the church was demolished in 1930.
        • From 1945 to 1992 the street bore the name of Alexey Tolstoy: he lived in no. 4, which has been his museum-apartment since 1987.
        • Alexander Blok lived in no. 6 in 1903–1904.
        • Tarasov House (no. 30/1) was built by Ivan Zholtovsky in 1909–1912, and the ceiling painting of the great hall was done by Yevgeny Lanceray.
        • Ilya Golosov's building no. 24/1 (1932–1936) stands on the site of the demolished Spiridonovka church.
        • In the TV series "Kitchen", the restaurant Claude Monet was "located" in no. 25.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🌳 Patriarch's Ponds (Patriarshiye Prudy)
        A square pond surrounded by old lime trees and benches, a calm park amid quiet lanes and the setting of The Master and Margarita.
        Walk around the pond once the lamps come on: old lime trees, a pavilion by the water and the Krylov monument
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Patriarch's Ponds (Patriarshiye Prudy)
        © Dimа · CC BY-SA 3.0
        Patriarch's Ponds (Patriarshiye Prudy)
        © Shuvaev · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Patriarch's Ponds (Patriarshiye Prudy)
        © Gennady Grachev from Moscow, Russia · CC BY 2.0
        • In 1683 Patriarch Joachim ordered the local Goat Marsh drained and three fish ponds dug.
        • After the fire of 1812 two ponds were filled in and one remained; Trekhprudny Lane recalls the three.
        • From 1932 to 1992 the pond was officially called Pionersky ("Pioneer").
        • The 1976 Krylov monument (sculptors Andrei Drevin and Daniel Mitlyansky) is surrounded by scenes from 12 fables.
        • The stone pavilion by the water was built in 1986 on the site of a wooden one from 1938.
        • The Master and Margarita begins here; the sign banning talking to strangers refers to the novel's first chapter.
        • A skating rink has been flooded on the pond since 1900, with an area of about 12,000 m².
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🍽 Mama Tuta
        ул. Малая Бронная, 24, стр. 1
        ▮▮▮▮▮
        Dinner by 19:00: open until 23:00, better to book a table in the evening
        🍴 A Georgian restaurant near Patriarch's Ponds with breakfasts from the morning. What to order: an omelet with hummus, shakshuka, slow-braised lamb shank with saffron risotto.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🖼 Bulgakov Museum (the "Bad Apartment")
        Б. Садовая ул., 10
        🎟 ticket
        The Art Nouveau Pigit apartment building where Bulgakov lived in 1921–1924 and from which he "moved" Woland and his retinue into the novel.
        The archway and entrance painted by fans of the novel. Apartment 50 is open until 19:00, on Thursdays until 21:00, closed on Monday
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Bulgakov Museum (the "Bad Apartment")
        © Никонико962 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The apartment building was built in 1902–1903 for the tobacco manufacturer Ilya Pigit, owner of the Dukat factory.
        • Bulgakov lived here from 1921 to 1924, at first in Apartment No. 50, which became the "bad apartment" of The Master and Margarita.
        • In the novel the building is called "302-bis Sadovaya".
        • In autumn 1921, in the studio of the artist Georgy Yakulov in this building, Yesenin met Isadora Duncan.
        • The artist Pyotr Konchalovsky also had a studio in the building.
        • Two museums operate in the stairwell: the state museum in Apartment No. 50 and the private Bulgakov House on the ground floor.
        • For years the stairwell walls were covered with inscriptions and drawings by fans of the novel.
      10. 🚶 on foot
      11. 6
        🌳 Aquarium Garden by the Mossovet Theatre
        Б. Садовая ул., 16
        A cosy historic garden of the late 19th century where summer plays and concerts were once staged.
        A quiet garden by the Mossovet Theatre: sit on a bench before heading home
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Aquarium Garden by the Mossovet Theatre
        © Табуретка · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • In 1892 the First Moscow Electrical Exhibition, opened by Savva Mamontov, was held on the site; about 100,000 people visited it.
        • The garden, opened by the impresario Mikhail Lentovsky on 1 July 1893, was first called “Chicago”, after the World's Fair then under way.
        • The garden got the name “Aquarium” in 1898 under the Frenchman Charles Aumont, apparently modelled on the garden of the same name in St Petersburg.
        • Zimin's private opera began here, and Vera Komissarzhevskaya performed here in 1903.
        • In 1903 an athletics championship took place in the garden, where in the final, a nearly 25-minute bout, Ivan Poddubny beat Petrov.
        • In 1910–1912 the winter theatre building housed a skating rink, and at one time an aquarium stood in one of the pavilions.
      12. 🚶 on foot
      13. 7
        🏛 Mayakovskaya metro station
        A light columned hall of 1938 with arches and pink rhodonite; a ceremonial meeting was held here in November 1941.
        The finale underground: look up — the domes of the hall have Deineka mosaics
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Mayakovskaya metro station
        © Sergey A. Demidov · CC BY 4.0
        • In 1939 the station's design won the Grand Prix at the New York World's Fair.
        • The stainless-steel strips for finishing the columns and arches were made at the Dirizhablestroy plant in Dolgoprudny.
        • The mosaics in the ceiling niches, from sketches by Alexander Deineka, form the theme "A Day of the Soviet Sky"; of the 35 panels, one is lost.
        • The station was to be called Triumfalnaya Ploshchad, and then Ploshchad Mayakovskogo.
        • On the night of 17 to 18 July 2017 the first episode of season seven of Game of Thrones was shown at the station.
        • Since 2021, wedding ceremonies have been held on the platform at night.

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