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      From GUM to Stoleshnikov: the food hall, Detsky Mir and the arcades

      ⏱ 1 h 15 min🚶 2.1 km🍽 0📍 5 stops
      🐢 A little — under 3 km

      An hour among the main department stores of the centre: Soviet sweets at GUM, the free viewing deck on the roof of Detsky Mir, TsUM's neo-Gothic and the glass vaults of the Petrovsky Passage.

      🍽 Food tour☔️ If it rains⏱ An hour or so
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🏛 Gastronom No. 1 in GUM
        Красная пл., 3, ГУМ
        A 24-hour delicatessen in the Soviet spirit, with delicacies and nostalgic products.
        Caviar, sweets and canned goods in Soviet-style wrappers — good for souvenirs
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Gastronom No. 1 in GUM
        © Alexxx1979 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Gastronom No. 1 in GUM
        © Alexxx1979 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • Gastronom No. 1 was restored in 2008 on the third line of GUM; it used to be on the first line.
        • The GUM building, the former Upper Trading Rows, was built in 1893 to a design by Alexander Pomerantsev, who won a competition of 23 entries.
        • The Upper Trading Rows' glass roofs were the first to be assembled on a system of metal arches with radial tie rods.
        • GUM as a state department store reopened in 1953 after restoration; the gallery lamps were recreated from 1953 originals in 2013.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        ✨ Central Children's Store on Lubyanka (Detsky Mir)
        🎟 partly ticketed · the store is free to enter, the rooftop viewing platform requires a ticket
        The country's largest children's store, in a 1957 building with an atrium and a rooftop viewing platform.
        An old mechanical clock in the atrium and a free viewing deck on the roof
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Central Children's Store on Lubyanka (Detsky Mir)
        © Юрий Д.К. · CC BY 4.0
        Central Children's Store on Lubyanka (Detsky Mir)
        © A.Savin · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • The building was built in 1953–1957 to a design by Alexey Dushkin on the site of the demolished Lubyansky Passage, using its foundations and basements.
        • The department store opened on 6 June 1957 and was the first building in the USSR to install escalators.
        • Pavel Korin's mosaic panels were never made: the project was simplified during the fight against "excesses".
        • During the 2008–2015 reconstruction a seven-story atrium replaced the three-story one; eight bronze floor lamps and the marble staircases remain from the old interior.
        • The atrium clock's mechanism weighs 4.5 tonnes and has 5,000 parts, and its pendulum is 13 meters long; the clock was made by the Petrodvorets Watch Factory.
        • The carousel with horses that stood for many years in the old Detsky Mir returned to the main atrium in 2021.
        • Under the roof is the Museum of Childhood, with about a thousand exhibits, including Soviet toys.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🏛 TsUM (formerly Muir & Mirrielees)
        ул. Петровка, 2
        A Gothic building with spires and huge windows, Moscow's first department store, built to a design by Klein.
        Neo-Gothic from 1908: take the escalator up under the glass roof
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        TsUM (formerly Muir & Mirrielees)
        © Юрий Д.К. · CC BY 4.0
        TsUM (formerly Muir & Mirrielees)
        © Юрий Д.К. · CC BY 4.0
        • The Scots Andrew Muir and Archibald Mirrielees registered the Muir & Mirrielees trademark in 1857.
        • The store on Teatralnaya Square opened in 1885 as a shop of ladies' hats and haberdashery.
        • Here prices were first written on the goods themselves, so haggling stopped; returns were accepted too.
        • After fires in 1892 and 1900, Roman Klein built a seven-story Neo-Gothic building, opened in 1908.
        • The store has been called TsUM since 1933, and during the war the building housed barracks.
        • The 1974 wing is in the same style as the historic one, and in 2007–2008 an extension doubled the area.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🏛 Petrovsky Passage
        ул. Петровка, 10
        A shopping arcade of 1906 with two tiers of shops along a long gallery between Petrovka and Neglinnaya.
        Two galleries under glass vaults from 1906
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Petrovsky Passage
        © A.Savin · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • The passage was built by the merchant's wife Vera Firsanova, owner of the Sandunovsky Baths and the Serednikovo estate.
        • The design was by Sergei Kalugin and Boris Freudenberg, who also designed the Sandunovsky Baths.
        • The passage opened on 20 February 1906 and had more than fifty shopping pavilions.
        • The glass vaults are often attributed to Shukhov, but that is an urban legend: the structures were made by the Arthur Koppel firm.
        • Electricity for the passage's illumination came from a power station in the same Sandunovsky Baths.
        • In the 1930s Dirizhablestroy (the airship construction bureau) worked here, where the Italian designer Umberto Nobile served in 1931–1936.
        • The passage's auction hall is described in Ilf and Petrov's "The Twelve Chairs".
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🚶 Stoleshnikov Lane (Stoleshnikov Pereulok)
        A short pedestrian lane in the centre, with 19th-century apartment buildings and expensive shops.
        A pedestrian lane of boutiques and jewellers
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Stoleshnikov Lane (Stoleshnikov Pereulok)
        © Andreykor · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The name comes from stoleshnik, an old word for tablecloth: in the 17th century weavers lived here.
        • The lane is first mentioned as Rozhdestvenskaya Street in Ivan III's will of 1504.
        • In 1922 Kosmodamianovsky Lane was added to it, and it doubled in length.
        • Vladimir Gilyarovsky lived at no. 9; the estate now houses his museum and exhibition centre, a branch of the Museum of Moscow.
        • In Soviet times the lane was famous for its second-hand bookshops, considered the best in Moscow.
        • In 2007 Jones Lang LaSalle named it the second most expensive shopping street in the world after the Champs-Élysées.

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