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Walking routes in Moscow

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      All day: merchant and Old Believer Moscow

      ⏱ 10 h 30 min🚶 8 km🍽 2📍 11 stops
      🏃 A lot — over 7 km

      From the Old Believer Rogozhskaya Sloboda through the Andronikov Monastery and Taganka to Shvivaya Gorka, the Kotelnicheskaya skyscraper and Khitrovka.

      🏛 History and architecture
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps
      1. 1
        🏛 Rogozhskaya Sloboda: Intercession Cathedral and Bell Tower
        ул. Рогожский Посёлок, 29
        🚪 entrance from Rogozhsky Posyolok Street
        An Old Believer ensemble with the Neoclassical Intercession Cathedral and a tall white bell tower of the early 20th century.
        The spiritual centre of the Old Believers: the Pokrovsky Cathedral with ancient icons and a bell tower. Women need a headscarf and a skirt; taking them off inside is not customary
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Rogozhskaya Sloboda: Intercession Cathedral and Bell Tower
        © Savelyev alexandr · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Rogozhskaya Sloboda: Intercession Cathedral and Bell Tower
        © Savelyev alexandr · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The sloboda arose in the late 16th century: coachmen who carried the tsar's mail to the Rogozhsky Yam, now Noginsk, settled here.
        • The Old Believer cemetery was established in 1771 for those who died of the plague; Old Believer merchants then ran their own hospitals.
        • The Intercession Cathedral of 1790–1792 is attributed to Matvey Kazakov; by area it exceeded the Assumption Cathedral of the Kremlin.
        • By decree of Catherine II the cathedral was "shortened": of five domes one was left, and the altar projections were dismantled.
        • The collection's most famous icon was "The Saviour with the Fierce Eye"; the cathedral holds icons from the Rakhmanov and Soldatyonkov collections.
        • The bell-tower church was built in 1912–1913 in memory of the unsealing of the Old Believers' altars.
        • Legend says the bell tower was allowed to be just a meter lower than Ivan the Great; it was never measured exactly, but it is over 80 meters.
        • The bell tower's facade is decorated with reliefs of birds of paradise and a pelican feeding its chicks with its blood.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🖼 Andronikov Monastery and the Rublev Museum
        🎟 partly ticketed · the monastery grounds are free, the museum exhibition requires a ticket
        A 14th-century monastery above the Yauza behind white walls, where, according to tradition, Andrei Rublev lived and was buried.
        The 15th-century Saviour Cathedral — one of Moscow's oldest churches — and the Andrei Rublev Museum
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Andronikov Monastery and the Rublev Museum
        © Mike1979 Russia · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Andronikov Monastery and the Rublev Museum
        © A.Savin · FAL 1.3
        Andronikov Monastery and the Rublev Museum
        © Никонико962 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The monastery was founded in 1357 by Metropolitan Alexius and named after its first abbot, Andronik, a disciple of Sergius of Radonezh.
        • According to the saint's life, Alexius vowed to build a church when he was caught in a storm on the way to Constantinople.
        • The white-stone Cathedral of the Saviour of 1420–1427 is the oldest surviving church in Moscow.
        • Fragments of murals from about 1428 by Andrei Rublev, a monk of this monastery, survive in the cathedral.
        • In 1653 Archpriest Avvakum was held here under guard.
        • After the monastery was closed in 1918, one of the first Cheka concentration camps operated on its grounds until 1922.
        • The monastery's bell tower, the second tallest in Moscow after Ivan the Great, was demolished in 1929–1932.
        • The Rublev Museum was officially opened in 1960, for the 600th anniversary of the icon painter.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        🏛 Church of St Martin the Confessor on Alekseevskaya
        ул. Александра Солженицына, 15/2
        A large Neoclassical church of the 1790s with a massive dome and bell tower, built with funds from the merchant Zhigarev.
        A merchants' church from the late 18th century on what used to be Bolshaya Alekseevskaya Street
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Church of St Martin the Confessor on Alekseevskaya
        © SelenjerWiki · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Church of St Martin the Confessor on Alekseevskaya
        © Dr Jorgen · Public domain
        • Metropolitan Platon conceived the new church after the Austrian emperor Joseph II visited Moscow in 1780.
        • The design was by Rodion Kazakov, and the money was given by the tea merchant Vasily Zhigarev, later the city mayor.
        • Construction began in 1791, and the main altar was consecrated only in 1806.
        • According to tradition, in 1812 Marshal Murat posted a guard at the church against marauders.
        • The main dome is a rotunda 17 meters in diameter; the bell tower, about 60 meters high, stood separately until the 1820s.
        • The altar screen in the form of a triumphal gate is dedicated to the victory over Napoleon; in Soviet times it was kept in the Donskoy Monastery.
        • The church was closed in 1931; in the 1980s a research institute's computing center worked here.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        ☕️ Starik Khinkalych khinkali house
        ул. Верхняя Радищевская, 13, стр. 2
        ▮▮▯▯▯
        Lunch: khinkali and khachapuri
        🍴 An inexpensive Georgian khinkali house five minutes from Bunker-42 and Taganskaya metro. What to order: lamb khinkali (Georgian dumplings), mini khinkali in pepper sauce, crispy aubergine salad, Adjarian khachapuri.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🚶 Goncharnaya Sloboda (Potters' Quarter)
        A quiet district on a hill beyond Taganka with 17th-century churches and the low-rise buildings of the former potters.
        Shvivaya Gorka: the Church of St Nikita beyond the Yauza and the tiled Dormition Church in Goncharakh
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Goncharnaya Sloboda (Potters' Quarter)
        © Lodo27 from Moscow, Russia · CC BY-SA 3.0
        Goncharnaya Sloboda (Potters' Quarter)
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • In the 16th century the potters were moved out beyond the Yauza, to Shvivaya (then Vshivaya) Hill, farther from the Kremlin because of the danger of fire.
        • The potters' workshops were first excavated in 1947–1948 while a pit was being dug for the skyscraper on Kotelnicheskaya.
        • In 1667 Belarusian tile-makers from the Resurrection Monastery on the Istra were moved to the settlement.
        • From the 18th century the former settlement was built up with noblemen's estates and the houses of Old Believer merchants.
        • A memorial sign with a clock on Goncharnaya Embankment, by the Bolshoy Krasnokholmsky Bridge, recalls the settlement.
      10. 🚶 on foot
      11. 6
        🏛 Kotelnicheskaya Embankment skyscraper
        A residential Stalinist skyscraper at the confluence of the Yauza and the Moskva River, 176 m tall, with three wings and a spire.
        A Stalinist skyscraper — walk around it from the Yauza side
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Kotelnicheskaya Embankment skyscraper
        © Ludvig14 · CC BY-SA 4.0
        Kotelnicheskaya Embankment skyscraper
        © Safa.daneshvar · CC BY 4.0
        • The first block along Kotelnicheskaya Embankment was built as early as 1938–1940, and the high-rise part in 1948–1952.
        • The authors were Dmitry Chechulin and Andrei Rostkovsky; Chechulin, after falling out of favour, also received a flat in this building.
        • Originally the building had 540 flats.
        • Faina Ranevskaya, Galina Ulanova, Alexander Tvardovsky, Yevgeny Yevtushenko and Vasily Aksyonov lived here.
        • The Galina Ulanova apartment museum, opened in 2004, operates in the building.
        • The cinema in the building received the name Illyuzion in 1966 and began showing films from the State Film Fund.
      12. 🚶 on foot
      13. 7
        🚶 Yauzsky Boulevard
        A short boulevard at the end of the Boulevard Ring, descending a hill to Yauzskiye Vorota.
        A quiet boulevard leading up toward Khitrovka
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Yauzsky Boulevard
        © SmallSonMarex · CC BY 4.0
        • The boulevard was laid out in 1824, at the same time as Khitrovskaya Square.
        • On 2 (14) September 1812 the area burned to the ground; only the Foundling Home survived.
        • The stretch from Petropavlovsky Lane to Yauzskiye Vorota remained built-up, so there is no green avenue there.
        • The nearby Nikolovorobinsky lanes are named after the streltsy settlement of Vorobin's regiment, which stood here in the 17th century.
        • House no. 14/8 (1929–1930) is built of sand-lime brick and fitted into a level difference of almost a whole storey.
      14. 🚶 on foot
      15. 8
        🏛 Khitrovskaya Square
        A small square-park on the slope of Ivanovskaya Gorka, on the site of the famous 19th-century flophouse market.
        Moscow's former "underworld", described by Gilyarovsky
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Khitrovskaya Square
        © Roman Balabin · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • The square was laid out at his own expense and given to the city in 1824 by Major General Nikolai Khitrovo, hence the name.
        • In 1902 Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko came here to study the life of the flophouse residents for their staging of The Lower Depths.
        • The flophouses in the Yaroshenko, Bunin, Kulakov and Rumyantsev houses faced the square.
        • The image of Khitrovka at the turn of the 19th–20th centuries was preserved in the books of Vladimir Gilyarovsky.
        • In 1935 the square and the lane were named after Gorky; the lane's historic name was restored in 1994.
        • The current park appeared after a 1930s school building was demolished in 2010.
      16. 🚶 on foot
      17. 9
        🏛 Ivanovsky Convent on Ivanovskaya Gorka
        A convent behind high walls on a hillside, with a 19th-century cathedral and a quiet courtyard.
        A monastery on Ivanovskaya Gorka with steep lanes around it
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Ivanovsky Convent on Ivanovskaya Gorka
        © Carbonkidka · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The convent was founded in the 15th century in Zamoskvorechye, and in the 1530s it was moved here, to Kulishki, and made a convent for women.
        • In the 17th century the wives of Tsar Vasily Shuisky and of Tsarevich Ivan were held here.
        • In 1812 the convent was plundered and burned, after which it was abolished.
        • The current Neo-Renaissance ensemble was built to a design by Mikhail Bykovsky and consecrated in 1879.
        • In the 1920s there was a concentration camp here, the "Ivanovsky Correctional House", which held up to 400 prisoners at once.
      18. 🚶 on foot
      19. 10
        🚶 Khokhlovsky Lane and the Ukraintsev Chambers
        A steep, curving lane with the chambers of a 17th-century duma clerk and a courtyard covered in graffiti.
        The 17th-century Ukraintsev Chambers and the courtyards of Khokhlovka
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Khokhlovsky Lane and the Ukraintsev Chambers
        © NVO · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • The name comes from the area of Khokhly, where in the 17th century Cherkassy Cossacks settled next to the Little Russian Court.
        • From 1697 the chambers belonged to the duma clerk and diplomat Yemelyan Ukraintsev.
        • After Poltava, Peter I granted the chambers to Prince Mikhail Golitsyn.
        • From 1770 the Moscow Main Archive of the College of Foreign Affairs was kept here.
        • At the Jurgenson music press attached to the chambers, almost all of Tchaikovsky's works were first printed.
        • The Church of the Life-Giving Trinity in Khokhly was built in 1696.
        • On the corner with Kolpachny Lane the steep left bank of the little Rachka river has survived.
      20. 🚶 on foot
      21. 11
        🍽 Sibiryachka i Snegir Restaurant
        Б. Спасоглинищевский пер., 9/1, стр. 1
        ▮▮▮▯▯
        Dinner: Siberian pelmeni and salted omul; Snegir for dessert
        🍴 A Siberian and Russian cuisine restaurant by Ivanovskaya Gorka. What to order: Siberian pelmeni with three kinds of meat, stroganina (shaved frozen fish), omul baked in salt, the Snegir dessert.

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