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Walking routes in Anapa

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      Taman: Lermontov, Hermonassa and a Cossack village

      ⏱ 9 h🚶 3.5 km + 🚕🍽 1📍 5 stops
      🐢 A little — under 3 km

      A day on the Taman Peninsula: the cottage above the cliff from Lermontov’s “Taman”, the excavation of a city where Greeks lived 2,600 years ago and Russian Tmutarakan later stood, and an open-air Cossack village.

      🏛 History and architecture🚆 Out of town
      🗺 Open in Yandex Maps (with transit)
      Getting there
      🏛 Anapa Bus Station
      Красноармейская ул., 11
      There are no convenient morning buses to Taman, so we go by taxi; order one right from your hotel.
      🚕 by taxi to Taman Archaeological Museum
      taxi from Anapa about an hour, 70 km via Vyshestebliyevskaya
      1. 1
        🖼 Taman Archaeological Museum
        ул. Карла Маркса, 100, Тамань
        🎟 ticket
        Finds from the Taman Peninsula, from Greek Hermonassa to medieval Tmutarakan: terracotta, painted pottery, coins and amphorae.
        Start at the archaeological museum: finds from Greek Hermonassa to Tmutarakan. Open 9:00–17:00.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Taman Archaeological Museum
        © Ivengo(RUS) · CC BY-SA 4.0
        • The museum was created in 1975 on the basis of the Hermonassa-Tmutarakan settlement.
        • The first archaeological exhibition opened in 1977, and the present one in 1988.
        • Finds come here from Phanagoria, Hermonassa-Tmutarakan, Kepoi and other settlements on the peninsula.
        • The collection includes terracotta, lekythoi, black-glazed pottery, coins, seals and amphorae.
      2. 🚶 on foot
      3. 2
        🖼 Lermontov House Museum in Taman
        ул. Лермонтова, 5, Тамань
        🎟 ticket
        A Cossack’s cottage above a cliff where Lermontov stayed, the very “Taman” of “A Hero of Our Time”.
        Across the square is the cottage above the cliff where Lermontov wrote “Taman”. The poet’s monument is next to it.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        Lermontov House Museum in Taman
        © Николай Симагин · CC BY-SA 3.0
        • Lermontov visited Taman in 1837 and 1840, on his way to the Caucasus.
        • The real cottage was destroyed in 1855, during the Crimean War.
        • The farmstead was recreated from an 1879 sepia drawing by the local historian Felitsyn and from Lermontov’s own drawing “Taman. A Little House above the Cliff”.
        • The museum opened on 25 October 1976.
        • The monument to the poet in the neighbouring square was put up in 1984, for his 170th anniversary.
      4. 🚶 on foot
      5. 3
        ☕️ Dikanka na Tamani
        ул. Лермонтова, 2, Тамань
        ▮▯▯▯▯
        Lunch five minutes along Naberezhnaya Street: borscht and vareniki.
        🍴 A Ukrainian-style café next to the Lermontov museum. What to order: borscht and vareniki.
      6. 🚶 on foot
      7. 4
        🏛 Hermonassa-Tmutarakan Settlement
        Подгорный пер., Тамань
        🎟 ticket
        An excavation above a cliff where a city stood for 2,600 years in a row: Greek Hermonassa, then Russian Tmutarakan.
        10 minutes on foot to the excavation above the cliff with a view of the bay. Open Wednesday to Sunday, 10:00–18:00.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        • Hermonassa arose no later than the end of the 6th century BC and then existed for centuries almost without a break.
        • According to Arrian, the city was founded by Aeolian Greeks led by Semandros of Mytilene.
        • In places the settlement’s cultural layer is 12 metres deep.
        • In the Middle Ages the town of Tmutarakan stood here, the centre of the Russian Principality of Tmutarakan.
        • In 1023 Prince Mstislav Vladimirovich built the Church of the Mother of God in Tmutarakan.
      8. 🚶 on foot
      9. 5
        🖼 Ataman Cossack Village
        ул. Лебедева, 102, Тамань
        🎟 ticket
        An open-air museum of Cossack life on the shore of the Taman Bay: farmsteads, a mill, a school and a church.
        20 minutes along the shore to the Cossack village, for two or three hours: farmsteads, a mill and a school. Open until 19:00.
        📖 More about the placeCollapse
        • The complex opened in September 2009 on the western edge of the stanitsa of Taman.
        • It covers 60 hectares.
        • The farmsteads show the life of the Cossacks of the 18th–20th centuries: the potter, the shoemaker, the barber and the ataman.
        • Each cottage is looked after by a different district of Krasnodar Krai.
        • Even a quick look round takes at least two or three hours.

      ↩️ Getting back: taxi from Ataman to Anapa, about an hour, 70 km; book it in advance, as there are few cars in the stanitsa. There are no convenient evening buses to Anapa

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